Think again.

While recently re-popularized, “slow” and “locavore” were how our forefathers and foremothers survived. Whether that meant buying and trading food and services with neighbors or producing all the food a single family needed, people consumed locally and, prior to the industrial revolution, they ate mostly organically. The farm-to-table, locavore, organic mentality is actually a regression, shunning technological advancements like genetic modification and chemical fertilization in favor of a cleaner, simpler method of farming.

Yes, the chefs at Boulder’s Black Cat and Denver’s Fruition are indeed kicking it old school.
In recent years, there has obviously been a general increase in sensibility about food consumption and production. And we’ve seen the result in grocery stores, farmer’s markets and restaurants from Oregon to North Carolina.

It’s especially true locally. Many Boulder County chefs are working hard to develop their vision based on responsible ingredients and practices. Here are some of the many restaurants that support a conscious, green agenda:

Black Cat
Black Cat Bistro in Boulder is one of the most impressive examples of the development of the farm-to-table trend. Chef Eric Skokan has created an organic farm to supply his restaurant with locally grown ingredients (he recently featured a Salad of Lettuces that Survived the Frost on the menu). Considering that he and a team of organic gardeners harvest a daily lot of produce for the restaurant, it is clear that he is extraordinarily committed to producing and serving conscious, high quality food. Even more revealing of his dedication to the ingredients is the fact that he participates in the Boulder Farmers’ Market and community supported agriculture shares, selling the produce that the Black Cat Farm produces.

Lucile’s Creole Cafe
Lucile’s Creole Cafe, with its four locations, has recently jumped on the green food wagon by buying its own farm as well. The Lucile’s farm, which goes by the name Rich Organics Farm, appears as a part of their continued investment in the quality and consciousness of their food and the environment. When in season, potatoes, spinach, jalapeños and much more will find their way to your plate.

Terroir
Terroir Restaurant in Longmont has also illustrated its green agenda by using a number of local, organic farms and dairies to provide the produce for their restaurant. While this is a large part of the vision of the restaurant, they have expanded the concept to more than just the conscious sourcing of their food. The restaurant composts all suitable waste to Second Start Community Garden, recycles all fryer oil into biodiesel and recycles all glass, plastic, and paper products.

Many people believe that the reduction of carbon emissions is relegated to the realm of using public transport and energy production, but it is clear that the food world can aid in this reduction. And chefs have caught on to this idea. More and more restaurants are shifting to local and organic options when possible. Some even go so far as to start their own farms so as to maintain ultimate control over the methods used to produce the foods that they ultimately serve to awaiting customers.

It is clear that Colorado has been blessed with a number of tremendously conscious, green outlets for the aware eater. However, these three restaurants are but three of hundreds of restaurants throughout Colorado making an effort to be greener. Within Boulder County, there is the Eat Local Guide online at eatlocalguide.com/bouldercounty; it is a great resource that provides a guide and directory to eating consciously both in the home and outside.

Pastry
2 cups (8 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks or 8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into pats
1 large egg
2 tablespoons (1 ounce) milk

1 additional large egg (to brush on pastry)

Cinnamon Filling (enough for 9 tarts)
1/2 cup (3 3/4 ounces) brown sugar
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, to taste
4 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1 large egg, to brush on pastry before filling

Jam Filling
3/4 cup (8 ounces) jam
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water

Alternate fillings: 9 tablespoons chocolate chips, 9 tablespoons Nutella or other chocolate-hazelnut paste or 9 tablespoons of a delight of your choice, such as salted caramel or a nut paste

To make cinnamon filling: Whisk together the sugar, cinnamon, and flour.

To make jam filling: Mix the jam with the cornstarch/water in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, and simmer, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, and set aside to cool. Use to fill the pastry tarts.

Make the dough: Whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Work in the butter with your fingers, pastry blender or food processor until pea-sized lumps of butter are still visible, and the mixture holds together when you squeeze it. If you’ve used a food processor, transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Whisk the first egg and milk together and stir them into the dough, mixing just until everything is cohesive, kneading briefly on a well-floured counter if necessary.

Divide the dough in half (approximately 8 1/4 ounces each), shape each half into a smooth rectangle, about 3×5 inches. You can roll this out immediately (see Warm Kitchen note below) or wrap each half in plastic and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Assemble the tarts: If the dough has been chilled, remove it from the refrigerator and allow it to soften and become workable, about 15 to 30 minutes. Place one piece on a lightly floured work surface, and roll it into a rectangle about 1/8″ thick, large enough that you can trim it to an even 9″ x 12″. [You can use a 9" x 13" pan, laid on top, as guidance.] Repeat with the second piece of dough. Set trimmings aside. Cut each piece of dough into thirds – you’ll form nine 3″ x 4″ rectangles.

Beat the additional egg and brush it over the entire surface of the first dough. This will be the “inside” of the tart; the egg is to help glue the lid on. Place a heaping tablespoon of filling into the center of each rectangle, keeping a bare 1/2-inch perimeter around it. Place a second rectangle of dough atop the first, using your fingertips to press firmly around the pocket of filling, sealing the dough well on all sides. Press the tines of a fork all around the edge of the rectangle. Repeat with remaining tarts.

Gently place the tarts on a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet. Prick the top of each tart multiple times with a fork; you want to make sure steam can escape, or the tarts will become billowy pillows rather than flat toaster pastries. Refrigerate the tarts (they don’t need to be covered) for 30 minutes, while you preheat your oven to 350°F.

Charming tip from King Arthur: Sprinkle the dough trimmings with cinnamon-sugar; these have nothing to do with your toaster pastries, but it’s a shame to discard them, and they make a wonderful snack. While the tarts are chilling, bake these trimmings for 13 to 15 minutes, till they’re golden brown.

Bake the tarts: Remove the tarts form the fridge, and bake them for 20 to 25 minutes, until they’re a light golden brown. Cool in pan on rack.

Cheese Straws
Adapted from Smitten Kitchen

1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick or 2 ounces) unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 pieces
3/4 cup flour, plus more for dusting
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon half-and-half (I used cream, because I had it on hand; suspect milk would work just as well)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

2. In a food processor, combine the cheese, butter, flour, salt and red pepper in five 5-second pulses until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the half-and-half and process until the dough forms a ball, about 10 seconds.

3. On a lightly floured surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into an 8- by 10-inch rectangle that is 1/8-inch thick. With a sharp knife (or a pizza or pastry wheel; both worked great), cut the dough into thin 8-inch strips, each 1/4- to 1/3-inch wide (dipping the knife in flour after every few inches ensures a clean cut). Then cut each strip into approximate 1-inch squares. Gently transfer the squares to an ungreased cookie sheet, leaving at least 1/4-inch between them. You can also transfer the dough first, and then cut into squares. The dough may sag or may break occasionally in the transfer, but don’t be concerned — just do your best.

4. Bake the crackers on the middle rack for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the edges are barely browned. Remove from the oven and set the cookie sheet on a rack to cool.

5. Serve at room temperature. Cheese crackers will keep in the refrigerator, in a sealed container, for two days.

Homemade Ho Hos
Recipe from Gale Gand

Cake:

* 5 eggs
* 2 yolks
* 3/4 cup brown sugar
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
* 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
* 6 tablespoons Dutch-processed cocoa powder
* 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
* 1/4 cup clarified butter, warm

Filling:

* 3 cups confectioners’ sugar
* 1 cup butter
* 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
* 1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Glaze:

* 12 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
* 2 ounces cocoa butter or 1/4 cup vegetable oil
* Equipment: 2 half sheet pans with sides

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

To make the Cake: Butter the jelly roll pan and line it with parchment paper; then butter the paper to assure release.

Bring a saucepan of water to a simmer.

In the bowl from a standing mixer, combine the eggs, yolks, sugar, vanilla in a bowl and whisk briefly. Set the bowl over the simmering water and stir until warm and the sugar looks dissolved. Attach the bowl to the standing mixer fitted with a whisk, and whip until light and fluffy, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, sift together the flour, cocoa, and baking powder 3 times.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and, while folding the egg mixture, sift in the flour mixture, little by little, until incorporated. Drizzle in the clarified butter, while folding the batter.

Immediately pour the batter into the prepared pans dividing equally and smooth the tops with a spatula. Bake until lightly browned and it starts to pull away from the edges of the pan, about 14 to 16 minutes.

Remove the cakes from the oven and let sit in the pan for 1 minute. Run a knife along the edge to release the cake then flip it out onto parchment paper. Brush the paper (the one you lined the pan with) with water and let soak for 2 minutes. Peel it off the cake. Trim dry edges from the cake. Let cool covered with plastic wrap.

To make the Filling: In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the sugar and butter and mix on low speed until well blended; then increase speed to medium and beat for another 3 minutes. Add vanilla and cream and continue to beat on medium speed for 1 minute more, adding more cream for spreading consistency, if needed.

Spread the sponge cakes with a thin layer of the filling, leaving a 1/4-inch space at the far edge. Roll the cake tightly on the long side until you have rolled a 1 1/2-inch thick log. Cut the log off from the remaining sheet of cake and place seam side-down. Repeat with remaining cake. Chill the logs for 30 minutes; then cut into 2 1/2-inch sections.

To make the Glaze: Melt the 2 ingredients together in the top of a double boiler or a bowl set over barely simmering water, stirring occasionally. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat. One at a time, gently drop the cake rolls into the hot chocolate. Lift out with a fork and let excess chocolate drip back into the bowl. Place on the cookie sheet and let set at room temperature until the coating is firm, about 1 to 2 hours.

I included three recipes in my taste test: Pop-Tarts, cheese crackers and Ho Hos. I had seen recipes for each and wanted to try them out in my own kitchen and then present them to the YS staff for a taste test alongside their commercial counterparts.

I started with the Pop-Tarts. The concept is really very simple: piecrust, cut into rectangles, filled with jam or chocolate or any number of other fillings and baked. The recipe wasn’t much more difficult than it sounds. The crust came together easily and rolled out well; the fillings I made from high-quality store-bought jam and Nutella. The hardest part of the entire process was cutting out the rectangles to be the same size for easy stacking. With a yardstick and pizza cutter at my side, I soon had my tarts.

The cheese crackers were even easier. Extra-sharp shredded cheddar cheese, crushed red pepper, flour, leavening and cream all go into the food processor. A few quick whirs later, dough is easily rolled out, cut into squares (my pizza cutter was getting a workout) and popped into the oven.

The Ho Hos proved a somewhat bigger challenge. Deconstruct a Ho Ho and you’ll find a chocolate sponge cake filled with a creamy frosting and “elegantly enrobed in delectable confectionery coating,” according to the Hostess website, which obviously finds poetry in these little baked goods. My sponge cake called for seven eggs and sifting the cocoa powder with the flour three times. After the cakes were baked and the frosting whipped, it was a test of culinary skill to get them rolled together in the signature swirl. Then, the cakes were dipped into melted chocolate glaze—the closest I could come to a “delectable confectionery coating.”

The results were somewhat astonishing. When placed next to the originals, my treats seemed awfully homemade; my mother would call it the “loving hands” look as opposed to the cookie cutter perfection of the boxed treats. The tarts were thicker and flakier, the cheese crackers a distinctly different color (not the classic neon orange of Cheese-Its) and my Ho Hos considerably larger than the ones that come wrapped in pairs.

But aesthetics are easy to overcome if flavor is there.

“It’s hard to even compare,” my husband said, pondering a chocolate Pop-Tart next to my Nutella filled tart. “They don’t even taste like they’re in the same family.” My tarts had a light, flaky piecrust texture with a nice saltiness that complimented the sweet. The real Pop-Tarts were much thinner and had the consistency more of a cracker (Indeed, “cracker meal” is listed in their ingredients).

The flavor of the cheese crackers was definitely stronger than the Cheese-Its we tested them against. The extra sharp cheese came through brilliantly, as did the slow heat of the crushed red pepper. The texture was considerably different; where the Cheese-Its have a strong crunch, my cheese crackers were softer, more crumbly, more the consistency of a wonderful little biscuit than a crisp cracker.

My rolled cakes were a big hit at the office. Probably because of the full stick of butter in the frosting, the cocoa in the cake, and the real dark chocolate in the glaze, they were incredibly rich and definitely tasted more like dessert than a snack. The store-bought Ho Hos seemed disappointingly bland compared to their homemade cousins.

But the reactions were not unanimous. Most of the people who participated in my little experiment vastly preferred the homemade versions over the store-bought ones, but one employee admitted he liked the taste and texture of the processed foods better. And why not? It’s what he’s used to. And as my husband put it, they almost aren’t even the same foods; the homemade versions were so different from the originals as to verge on the unrecognizable. Without being set next to their counterparts, I’m not sure my coworkers would have known what they were meant to be. Other than tasty treats, that is.

The insight I took from this experiment was not that homemade foods taste better than processed; anyone who’d ever eaten a chocolate chip cookie lovingly made by a grandma would tell you they’re no match for Chips Ahoy. The real discovery for me was the amount of time and work necessary to produce these treats. The cheese crackers were simple, and I would gladly make them again, but I certainly wouldn’t take that effort for granted when confronted with the desire to eat the entire batch in one sitting. I can’t imagine making the Pop-Tarts on a regular basis as a breakfast staple, nor spending the time to fold sifted cocoa into whipped eggs for Ho Hos to make a regular everyday snack. These recipes would absolutely fall into the special occasions category of my mental cookbook, whereas their processed counterparts can easily be grabbed at any time, for any meal. And because they are so easily available, we start to think of them as everyday foods. It’s not much of a leap to understand, then, the role processed foods have played in increasing our national waistlines.

This is not to suggest that we should give up their processed foods entirely, nor that anyone strive to make at home that secret favorite that comes individually wrapped—though, with accessibility to the Internet, the recipe probably exists. The point is merely to take a second look at those processed foods, to look past the labels, and to pay a little more attention to what we are putting in our shopping carts, and in our bellies, as though we had to whip those seven eggs ourselves.

Click here for the recipes featured in this article—and let us know if you make any ho hos at your home.

Um, awesome?

You might think I spotted this dastardly delectable because it was featured on an episode of House this season, but no (I’m not that observant). I discovered the deadly weed on an herb walk with the inimitable herbalist Brigitte Mars. She allowed me to tag along while she led one of her classes on a walk up the Mount Sanitas trail, pointing out each useful, edible and decidedly not edible plant as we went.

I’ve been fascinated by the recent trend of urban foraging; sites have sprung up in cities like Portland, Santa Fe and Los Angeles detailing where hipster foodies can glean wild fruit, mushrooms and other edibles. The movement got me interested in what edible delicacies might be springing up in my own sidewalk cracks.
Turns out, quite a lot.

“Everything is something,” Mars told her class as we examined the local flora. A common yellow wildflower called salsify or goat beard has edible roots, and is actually cultivated in France for its reported oyster flavor. Prickly pears and yuccas both have edible parts and are abundant in the dry rocky parts of the mountains. And some plants even have conveniently foodie names like biscuit root and lemonade berry.
Mars pointed out wild apple trees, wild plums and gooseberry bushes as we walked as well, and I was astounded by the bounty available within just a few hundred feet. “Wild foods may be smaller,” she told the class, “but they’re very satisfying—on a cellular level.”

But it’s important to be absolutely certain of what you’re picking, lest you meet the same end as our friend Socrates; have a good book or go with a guide. Another good rule is not to be too greedy; once you’ve correctly identified a plant, be sure not to harvest all of it from any given site. Leave some growing to propagate for next year and for any other foragers who might follow you. A tree full of wild plums would be ridiculously tempting, but how many will you actually be able to use for yourself? Finally, be sure you have permission. Check the rules before foraging in parks or on public land and always ask an owner before foraging on private property.

The few hours I spent with Mars were incredibly enlightening. I’ve started spotting blue mustard, smooth sumac and chickweed on my daily dog walks. And, as it turns out, my weedy yard is actually a veritable salad bar of wild green goodies. We just have to watch for the hemlock.

5 Edible Plants I Found in My Back Yard…Literally
1. Gooseberries
I had already identified this great bush in my yard and am eagerly awaiting the chartreuse berries that will ripen in another month or two.

2. Prickly Lettuce
I’d previously mistaken this for dandelions. Edible when small (under 10 inches) after which it gets terribly bitter.

3. Penny Cress Mustard
These pretty yellow and grey-green plants have completely taken over the furthest back corner of our yard where the grass can’t/won’t/doesn’t grow. Once the seeds have matured, they can be dried and added to food like mustard seeds for seasoning.

4. Rose Hips
We have a large, old-fashioned rose bush in the front yard that, in the fall, was covered in bright red-orange rose hips. Rose hips can be made into jams and jellies and are chock full of vitamin C.

5. Flax
I don’t really have enough of this to plan on a flax seed harvest any time soon, but I’m going to encourage the pretty blue flowers wherever they pop up. Good source of Omega-3s.

For more information, visit brigittemars.com and foraging.com, which lists lots of resources online and off.

Spicy calamari: Japango. 1136 Pearl St., Boulder, 303.938.0330. Japango’s calamari appetizer includes sautéed, never deep-fried squid liberally splashed with Sriracha, the thick red pepper hot sauce. We like it with sashimi and a little sinus-clearing wasabi on the side.

Pete’s Heat hot sauce: Tortugas, 218 Coffman St., Longmont, 303-772-6954. Whether you order etouffee or grilled mahi at Tortuga’s, Longmont’s Caribbean-influenced restaurant, always get some of the house-made Pete’s Heat hot sauce. It’s amazing stuff made from ground mustard, papaya, habanero, pineapple, honey and herbs. It’s also sold bottled at the restaurant and online.
 
Lobito agua chiles: Colorado Steakhouse & Mexican Grill, 11961 Bradburn Blvd., Westminster, 720.937.5749. Big citrus-y shrimp are cooked in tomato sauce with cukes, onions and tons of blistering dried chiles for a bigger-than-life impact. Eat it in 20 minutes without drinking anything and it’s free; otherwise, it’s $12.

Green curry with chicken: U.S.Thai, 5228 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303.233.3345. Order this authentic eatery’s green curry with chicken, bamboo shoot, Thai basil, coconut milk, and vegetables and then say “Thai hot.” The servers will ask you if you’re sure. Say “yes” and be prepared to sweat your way to an out of body experience.
 
Chile verde: Efrain’s Mexican Restaurant III, 451 S. Pratt Parkway, Longmont, 720.494.0777. Efrain’s dishes true Northern Mexican-style hot green chile. The bowl of spice-flecked broth is packed with roasted peppers and chunks of fall-apart pork with a flaming bite that scares you and then beckons you back for more. Lay in an ample supply of flour tortillas, chips, water and beer.
 
Buffalo-style hot wings:  Willy’s Wings, 109 Bear Creek Lane, Morrison, 303.697.1232. For some places chicken wings are just an appetizer. At Willy’s, it’s more like a religion. Order 10, 20, 30 or 100 of the meaty wings straight from the fryer. We like to get both the four alarm XX-hot sauce and the more sweetly complex spicy barbecue sauce. On the side they have corn dogs, deep-fried Rocky Mountain oysters and deep-fried apple turnover or cheesecake.
 
Lamb vindaloo: Kathmandu Restaurant, 110 North Jefferson St., Nederland, 303.258.1169. The lamb vindaloo ordered “hot” at this mountain town eatery is what we call sneaky-spicy. You take a bite and notice the many flavorings, the tender meat and subtle tart undertones before this urgent blaze flickers and grows until you’re left slightly dazed but quite happy with a sweaty forehead.  

Cool tip: To cool the BTU’s (actually Scoville Units) in your mouth, some suggest milk but beer is more effective. The best of all is spirits—i.e., tequila, vodka, brandy, etc—because alcohol most easily dissolves the heat-inducing oil containing capsaicin, and frankly dulls the habanero agony. Another great reason to drink tequila with your green chile!
 
Got a fiery favorite on a local menu? Don’t keep it to yourself. Let us know at nibbles@yellowscene.com.

FOOD NEWS
Keep an eye out this summer for a silvery Airstream trailer at Chautauqua, the Louisville Street Faire and the Twenty Ninth Street Mall. Top Chef winner Hosea Rosenberg and partner Laura Rice are debuting StrEat Chefs, a gourmet food truck. Their goal is to launch a national street food company.…Oliv You & Me, 2043 Broadway next to the Savory Spice Shop, is the first Boulder County store to carry my favorite artisan salumi crafted by Denver’s new Il Mondo Vecchio. The shop also sells a world of fine olive oils plus a light lunch including soup, sandwiches and quiche.…Oliv You & Me is one of the stops for the recently launched Local Table Tours. The Saturday Market to Table Tour on June 19 starts with an insider’s visit to the Boulder County Farmer’s Market and finishes at nearby restaurants for a tasting of dishes using local ingredients. Details at: localtabletours.com.

EATERY UPDATE
The folks who operate the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse, Leaf, Aji and Huckleberry have opened the doors of Zucca Italian Ristorante at 808 Main St., Louisville. …Zoe Ma Ma is open at 2010 10th St. (between Pasta J’s and Sushi Tora) offering Asian street food favorites.…The Cheeky Monk is pouring 38 Belgian ales and American craft brews at Orchard Town Center, 14694 Orchard Parkway, Westminster. The café and bar is also open in Winter Park and Denver.…India’s Clay Oven is serving favorite curries at 5290 Arapahoe Ave. in the former Royal Peacock spot.…The bike-themed Rueben’s Burger Bistro is dishing various burgers on pretzel buns at 1800 Broadway.…Coming soon: In a clear case of gastronomic irony, the meat-glorifying Ted’s Montana Grill will fill the former veggie-friendly Sunflower space at 1701 Pearl St., Boulder.

CULINARY CALENDAR
Free tastes of Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Torte and Raspberry Bliss dessert drinks are on the menu as A Grand Finale hosts Eat Dessert First 5–8pm June 11 at 489 N. Highway 287, Lafayette.…The puckered-up Rhubarb Festival June 13 in Pine Grove features a pancake breakfast with rhubarb sauce, rhubarb pie and a celebrated rhubarb cooking contest; details at historicpinegrove.com.…Well, $295 tickets for the grand tasting pavilion are still available for the major domo of American food festivals, the FOOD & WINE Classic June 18-20 in Aspen. If you want to hang out with Mario Batali, David Chang, Giada De Laurentiis, Thomas Keller, Jacques Pépin, Tom Colicchio and Rick Bayless be prepared to dish out the big bucks. I’d go just to sit in on Joshua Wesson’s Haute Dog session: pairing vino with wieners. For information check out foodandwine.com/classic-in-aspen. …The Greenbriar Inn hosts a Lefthand Brewing Company beer dinner July 22. greenbriarinn.com, 303.440.7979. …Can Man handle The West End Tavern’s wing king challenge? Find out on June 16 at 7pm, when Travel Channel’s Man vs. Food takes on Boulder. Watch it at the tavern to take advantage of food and drink specials.…For even deeper immersion in our local foodshed, join me for Radio Nibbles 8:25am Thursdays on KGNU (88.5 FM, 1390 AM, and KGNU.org), and read my food trend blog at johnlehndorff.wordpress.com.

FOOD WORDS
“You don’t get tired of muffins but you don’t find inspiration in them either.”
—Playwright George Bernard Shaw.

Richard’s On 3rd is one of those places. You feel like an insider just finding the place, tucked into a historic house on 3rd Avenue in a decidedly residential area. If you have the option always sit on the patio; the interior is fine, but the patio shines.

Richard himself is a former resident of Taos so he understands the sort of Southwestern ethos my uncle was searching for in Santa Fe. That understanding translates not only to the location and the atmosphere, but most definitely to the food. Ever since moving to Colorado, my husband and I have searched for true New Mexican food. Let me be perfectly clear about this: nothing else we have eaten here has even come close. Richard’s trumps them.

We started the night with a prime spot on the patio, some good friends and margaritas that took up most of the available real estate on the table. Richard’s margaritas are seriously tasty—and seriously strong. We contemplated our entrée choices while we munched on freshly made guacamole, a basket of tri-color chips and a very good and interesting salsa made with that very green chile we were hoping to taste. A tasty twist that made all the difference.

I ordered a combo plate to be able to try a variety of traditional New Mexican components. My chile relleno was just the way I like them: dipped in an egg batter and flash fried for a crispy shell. But the red chile on it was too strong and subsequently too bitter for my liking. The chicken enchilada, on the other hand, smothered in Richard’s signature vegetarian green chile, was outstanding. The true test of a New Mexican restaurant is their green chile and Richard’s is outstanding: deeply flavorful and hot without being overwhelming. I knew as my husband tucked into his own combo plate with a groan of happiness that we’d hit the motherload. This was green chile as we knew it could be—as opposed to the “greasy gravy” we’d had at other so-called New Mexican restaurants. My blue corn beef taco was deliciously flavorful but so juicy that I couldn’t actually pick it up and eat like a taco. No matter; I enjoyed it just as well with a fork.

Our friends took a more eclectic path: the blue corn chicken and mango enchiladas and the portabella bites. The mango was a perfect way to cut the heat of the green chile for someone who doesn’t like their meal with as much bite as I do, adding a fine sweetness and tropical flare to an old favorite. The portabella bites were one of many great vegetarian options Richard offers with his vegetarian green chile.

Richard’s On 3rd isn’t a fine dining establishment, nor does it try to be. Service is attentive and friendly, but can be slow, and the quirky atmosphere might be off-putting to some, but the details are what make this place a true neighborhood gem in my mind—a true hole-in-the-wall in the very best sense of the word.

Richard’s On 3rd
four stars
1283 3rd Ave., Longmont
303.776.0985
Bottom Line: If you’re a fan of New Mexican fare, this is your best bet.

Grill Gear:
The good folks at Karl’s Farm Dairy in Thornton know about more than just milk; they’ve got a wide selection of outdoor cookery products to get your summer nights smokin’. “We specialize in Traeger Wood Pellet Smokers, which we feel are terrific for all levels of experience,” said Daneen Rucki of Karl’s Dairy. Whether you want to start with the Lil’ Tex—“a pint-sized grill with a gallon cooking potential”—or you’re ready to move up to the stainless steel Traeger Deluxe with 646 square inches of internal cooking surface, there’s something out there for everyone.

Burned Out:
Heat still too much for you? Then let someone else do the cooking. Try the crispy duck confit with grilled fennel salad or pork shoulder with grilled figs at Black Cat in Boulder, or the grilled quail at Colterra in Niwot. Veggies get some love at The Empire in Louisville where they serve grilled asparagus and shirred egg (pictured) and at Magnolia in Lafayette where you can have grilled artichokes with meyer-lemon saffron aioli. And for a truly unique taste, stop into Centro Latin Kitchen and taste their grilled pineapple-infused tequila. Cheers!

Magic Marinades
These are marinades my son Hans and I have come up with for summer grilling. The recipes have always morphed depending on the ingredients available.—John Lehndorff

Sicilian Vegetable Marinade
Makes about 1 cup
4 cloves garlic, very finely minced
Zest from one lemon
Juice of one lemon
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh Italian parsley
3 tablespoons minced fresh basil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt (adjust to taste)
1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes
Mix all ingredients or puree in food processor or blender for a few seconds. Marinate eggplant slices, whole cremini mushroom caps, halved roma tomatoes and zucchini slices before grilling as a side dish or for panini sandwiches. For a potato kebab side dish: Boil four small red potatoes for each person. Cool. Halve and soak in marinade for 1 hour. Place potatoes on skewers and grill on both sides until brown.

Sweet Hot Chicken Thigh Marinade
Makes about 3/4 cup
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/3 cup Grade B maple syrup
2 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons rice (or white wine) vinegar
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (adjust heat to taste)
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Tenderize chicken by stabbing all over with a fork on both sides and soak in marinade. Cover with some plastic and refrigerate. Cook on a gas or charcoal grill to desired temperature. To use the leftover marinade as a sauce, bring it to a rolling boil for at least three minutes, strain and serve.

Second, it’s absolutely delicious. Blending the avocado with mascarpone cheese, cream and honey for sweetness, the mousse is light and delicate, creamy and rich with a velvety mouth feel that reminds you of all the good fats you’re consuming. Has to be healthy, right? The light fruitiness of the avocado is surprising; if you were tasting blind, you might not be able to identify the flavor, because it’s far from the bold taste one might imagine. But once you know what you’re looking for, the familiarity of the flavors is unmistakable.

Finally, this dessert is more than a little addictive. Stanford admitted that he’d been tasting…and tasting and tasting all afternoon.

“I’d take one bite, and suddenly it was five or six. And then I had to get to the cookie,” he said.

Clearly, so did we. The crispy lightness of the meringue was a pleasant surprise that blended well with the creamy mousse. Top it all with fresh, ripe berries and you absolutely have a winning combination.

“I wanted to do something different,” Keesy told us. “I didn’t want to make a plate of guacamole. I was trying to think outside the box.” While he’d done mousses of chocolate and other more traditional flavors before, this was a first. And a far cry from his normal use for avocados in a popular warm shrimp and avocado salad.
“I wanted to do something fun,” Keesy said.

Lucky for us, his idea of fun is also completely delicious.

Look for the avocado mousse perfetto as a dessert special throughout the month of June at Asti d’Italia in The Orchard center in Westminster. Call 303.457.3900 or visit astiditalia.com for reservations and more information.

Frasca Food and Wine is located on 1738 Pearl Street, and for those eager to attend, reservations can be made by calling 303.442.6966.

But a great way to cross a few of your top choices off your list is with a culinary tour. I used to think that sort of thing was only for tourists, but why let the out-of-towners have all the fun? A culinary tour allows you to get intimate with some of your must-visit restaurants, whether you’re visiting a city for the first time or celebrating your 20th year of residency.

Which is why I was super excited to be invited to take a tour with Culinary Connectors.

If 12 courses in three hours sounds a little daunting, never fear; each Culinary Connectors tour is led by an expert who is happy to hold your hand and pour you another glass of wine. If 12 courses in three hours sounds like bliss, you’ve definitely come to the right place.

Each chef or owner takes time to personally interact with the members of the tour—plus, the restaurants change nearly every week, as do the menus based on seasonality—so each tour is absolutely unique. Our first stop was Bácaro Venetian Taverna on Pearl Street. Seated at a long table, the 12 of us started to chat and get to know one another as our servers poured our first glass of wine of the day to accompany the swordfish carpaccio with lemon vinaigrette, followed closely by Spanish shrimp and octopus and then papperdelle with braised short ribs and porcini. Did I mention that this was only our first stop?

From there, we ventured out into the suddenly very bright sunlight and made our way down the road a bit to Bombay Bistro. Owner and chef Paul Gill seemed genuinely thrilled to see us.

“Please come in!” he exclaimed. “Act like we’re related!”

And by all accounts, it’s how he and his wife Pari treat everyone who sets foot in their colorful carnival of a restaurant. Gill explained his many years in the restaurant industry as he brought out dishes of shrimp korma, chicken tikka in an eggplant sauce and fork-tender boneless beef short ribs in a fragrant sauce of green and black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, garlic, cumin and more that made me wish I were Indian. He extolled the virtues of his new mixology menu as he poured us glasses of Indian beer and a ginger liqueur that was dangerously good. He even walked us all the way to our third destination, Salt.

Located in the venerable Tom’s Tavern space at the corner of Pearl and 11th, Salt is making a valiant effort to live up to the epic history of the space they occupy as well as make it their own. We sampled an arugula pesto and goat cheese flatbread from their farm-to-table menu whose ingredients probably traveled less distance than I did to reach the table. A bite-sized taste of executive chef Kevin Kidd’s signature chocolate salt tart and a tour of the historic space were a perfect way to wrap up our hedonistic taste of some of Boulder’s best.

5 Tours to Taste:
1. Culinary Connectors
Offering tours of Denver and Boulder restaurants as well as gourmet market tours and special events. culinaryconnectors.com

2. Local Table Tours
Tour some of the 100-plus restaurants in downtown Boulder or see the largest farmer’s market in Colorado with a guide. localtabletours.com

3. Foodie Food Tours
When in Aspen, check out the Local’s Bites Tour, which visits six or seven restaurants and shops. foodiefoodtours.com

4. New World Sports
Hop on a bike in Fort Collins and spend half a day peddling between courses at five of the city’s best local restaurants. newworldsportsllc.com

5. Savor Each Glass
Take a chauffeured tour of the North Fork wine country and round it out with a wine class or a food and wine dinner. savoreachglass.com