Frankly, my siblings had to listen. It was part of the deal. Everybody got a turn talking about their day. We learned how to converse and a few basic manners, but these were no staid, formal meals we had to endure. By dessert they turned into a free for all, especially given my Dad’s penchant for puns and my older brother’s ability to raise an eyebrow and cause milk to squirt out of my younger sister’s nose. As we got older, more meals were eaten in front of the tube watching the world implode—war, assassinations, racial violence, war—but we talked, argued and ate together.

When my now 17-year-old son was 6, I was offered a job as a restaurant critic. I knew recreating the archetypal family dinner hour would be hard because I’d have to eat out a lot.

“If I take this job will you go out to eat with me?” I asked him. “There’s one rule: no matter what we’re eating, you have to have a bite of everything.”

Happily, he agreed and we went on to have incredibly diverse meals and chats over the years.

I believe eating together is the best activity parents can do to make a family more resilient and kids stronger, safer and smarter. I could pass along statistics and quotes proving family dinner reduces drug and alcohol use in teens, improves grades, cuts truancy and produces better citizens. But that won’t convince some folks it’s worth the trouble.

Every family is different and many parents secretly shudder at the thought of family dinner. Who can blame them? They had such horrible experiences in the past in which they learned dinner time was when one got yelled at, disciplined or worse, ignored.

There are no secrets to making the ritual part of your life except understanding it’s an ongoing process. Start with a once-a-week shindig, then designate one restaurant meal as a family meal. Let the kids take turns choosing the menu and maybe helping with the cooking and clean-up. Do not serve different dishes for different family members—you are sharing. Ignore the teenage sighs, shrugs and bitter complaints. Step away from your devices.

There are ways to lure the naysayers to the table. First, tell them on dinner night you’ll be serving mac and cheese, tacos or whatever food they love. Have pizza night and not delivered. Buy ready-made pizza or bread dough and have everyone top their own. Make root beer floats one night. Involve them.

Celebrate everyone’s small victories. You will find out information your kids would never divulge under direct inquisition, and they will learn about you.

Recently, my far-flung family gathered to celebrate a birthday, a graduation, an athletic peak, a new job—all of us had good stuff to talk about. I served Thanksgiving leftovers I’d frozen in November and we passed a laptop with Skype around so each of us could say hi to my brother. Nothing could have made me happier.

It’s not whether to tip—I almost always do—but how much. I don’t want to leave too little and feel guilty or leave too much and be miffed at myself.

After all, I’m just standing in line for a damn cup of quality coffee and I won’t be getting a refill. All they’re doing is pouring it. I’d do that myself if I could.

If I order a fancy drink—I like a large skinny latte with an extra shot—I’m more than happy to tip. A good barista can be a culinary artist. But then I think: I know what these folks are getting paid per hour. They depend in part on tips.

Back when I was a professional dining critic I tipped with the newspaper’s money, and I was pretty generous, 20 percent and above. Now, I’m a semi-employed freelance writer and every single penny counts. If anything, I’m more critical of restaurant service now than when I was a paid reviewer.

But, that kind of tipping only counts at eateries where there is some actual smidgen of service being provided to me. What am I to think about the new generation of fast-casual chains, many of them birthed in Colorado, including Chipotle, Larkburger, Smashburger and Noodles & Company? The only service provided at these establishments is when somebody brings the food from the kitchen to the table and then never returns. Is that 10 percent? 5 percent? Change?

You order at the counter and get your own drink. There’s often the expectation, stated or suggested, that one should clean their own table afterward. There’s a tip jar on the counter or a tip line on the card receipt and so we leave a tip. It should also be noted that these fast-casual workers make very little per hour and deserve as much as they can get.

Circumstances always matter to me, even at a sandwich shop or a hamburger joint. Eye contact matters. Acting entitled to a tip matters to me. Making me wait because you want to finish a debate about Lady Gaga really matters.

If I’m a regular and the staff recognize or at least acknowledge me, I tip more. If I’m picking up a big, complicated takeout order and they take pains to make sure it’s perfect, I tip more. Breakfast waitresses who call me “Hon,” bring lots of coffee and touch my shoulder always get more than 15 percent.

Listen, I understand just how hard restaurant work can be. Years ago I worked in a succession of Boulder restaurant kitchens. I tip well even though I was never tipped during my years on the line in the heat.  

By the way, I finally got to the counter and ordered my coffee. On automatic pilot I put my change in the jar. The guy behind the counter smiled and said, “Thanks.”

For once, it felt right.

Many eateries closed, but the economy didn’t stop most of the empty eatery locations from being filled pretty quickly. Various national accolades including “the foodiest city in America” were awarded, and downtown Louisville grew into a dining destination unto itself. It was a great 12 months to be eating here. 

In 2011, I expect the local food, beverage and dining scene to continue blossoming. Here are a handful of trends that may become prominent in the coming months.

A kombucha comeback: First, the fizzy vinegar health beverage was everywhere. Then, it disappeared for a while over concerns that the fermentation produced excess alcohol. Now, kombucha is filling the refrigerated shelves again including locally produced varieties from Celestial Seasonings (Boulder), Julien’s Cliffhouse (Jamestown) and High Country (Eagle). Expect to see more eateries with kombucha on tap.

Food trucks proliferate: Wary of the investment and commitment, more chefs and entrepreneurs will opt for food trucks selling on the streets and at events. The current roster includes Hosea Rosenberg’s StrEat Chefs Airstream, the pink Comida Mexican truck, Walnut A Go-go, an offshoot of the Walnut Café and Southside Walnut Café, and a bevy of mobile kitchens in Denver. The real question is where local municipalities will allow the trucks and trailers to park.

Popcorn upgrade: Popcorn is moving out of the movie theaters and away from that weird salty yellow grease. We’ll see locally grown organic popcorn fried in everything from lard and suet to bacon and goose fat with eclectic toppings including poutine-style (gravy or green chile and cheese).

Salumi on the rise: Foodies have moved beyond bologna and pepperoni and are discovering a world of wonderful cured meats. Many chefs are serving up house-cured meats as appetizers and topping artisan pizzas with soppresata. One indicator: The remodeled Frasca dining room now showcases its salumi-cutting red Berkel slicer with a special salami by Denver’s Il Mondo Vecchio.

Cumin is comin’:  Ground cumin is the hot spice of the moment and will accent many more dishes and not be limited to its usual home in Mediterranean, Indian and Mexican fare. Look for “smoked cumin” as a flavor du jour. Cumin’s reputed health benefits also boost its appeal.    

Some food trends to avoid: There are some projected national trends that we applaud, but others I hope will skip us and land in Kansas City—such as savory soft-serve ice cream and cooking with dirt (“radishes with toasted malt dirt,”) and pine needles (“pine-infused ice cream”). It’s hard enough getting chefs to tone down the rosemary and mint and keep the herbs OUT of my desserts. 

There’s only one problem: Colorado’s so darn nice that these visitors have all been here before. They’ve already sniffed the mint at Celestial Seasonings and gawked at the candy puller at Hammond’s Candy. They’ve brunched at Chautauqua, tasted the cinnamon rolls at Johnson’s Corner Café, and sipped margaritas at the Rio Grande. They’ve done the brewpub thing, seen the Dushanbe Tea House, and smacked their lips at lots of good eateries.

Here’s our holiday list:
 For your foodie sister who religiously watches the Food Network: Take her to dine at StrEAT Chefs (streatchefs.com), the Airstream trailer that dishes fine street fare created by Top Chef-winning chef Hosea Rosenberg. She can also get an autograph when he cooks in his old kitchen, Jax Fish House, Dec. 15. jaxfishhouseboulder.com.

 For your young, bored cousins who just can’t wait for Christmas morning, send them out for a special holiday tea:
• Breakfast with Santa and Elvis, Dec. 19, Spice of Life Event Center; aspiceoflife.com
• Nutcracker Tea, Dec. 12, Hotel Boulderado; boulderado.com.
• Gingerbread Tea, Nov. 29–Dec. 27, St. Julien Hotel; stjulien.com.

For your aunt and uncle who are happiest when they can find rare foods and share their discoveries, send them specialty shopping at: Cheese Importers, Longmont; cheeseimporters.com.

In front of the establishment there’s a French-accented gift store where you can enjoy a good sandwich and coffee. Then it’s into the incredible warehouse packed with cheeses and gourmet goodies from across the globe. They even have extra parkas for those who want to dawdle happily in the refrigerated space contemplating the many variations on a bleu cheese theme.

Then there are your father’s brothers who, uh, appreciate the nuances of a well-made beverage. This visit, have them skip the ubiquitous brewpubs and take tours of a local artisan distillery or meadery:

• 303 Vodka: At the Tasting Bar at Boulder Distillery & Clear Spirit Company. 303vodka.com.
• Redstone Meadery: Sample honey wine variations and take a tour of the mead-making process; redstonemeadery.com.
For you tea-savvy nieces who think they know their Oolong from their Assam, challenge them to expand their tea expertise at Ku Cha, a tea room at 2015 13th St., and Healing Tea, 3216 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder.
For that hungry, literary brother-in-law, there’s always an edible Christmas Carol:
• Charles Dickens Christmas Wine Dinner, Dec. 12, at the Cody Inn, 866 Lookout Mountain Rd., Golden; 303.526.0232.

OPEN, CLOSED & COMING SOON
Oskar Blues has opened Old Chubway Expeditious Chow Dispensary, 303 Main Street, Lyons, a quick-serve eatery offering sandwiches, burritos and homemade ice cream.  …Boulder’s Walnut Café and South Side Walnut Café have launched Walnut A Go Go, a food truck named Dinah serving breakfast and lunch specials, espresso and, of course, pie. …In Season Local Market has opened at 924 Main St., Louisville, serving sustainable food and products originating within a 250-mile radius. …NaRaYa, a Thai restaurant and sushi bar, is open at 1575 Folsom, former site of Siamese Plate. …Sweet Cow ice cream shop is open at 627 Front St., Louisville (next to Lucky Pie). …Closed: Terrace Maya, 4929 Broadway, Boulder; Sol Azteca, 3328 28th St., Boulder. …Chef Theo Adley is set to open The Pinyon at 1710 Pearl St. on Dec. 1 in the former Bimbamboo/Camille’s location. …Coming soon: Caffe, a casual eatery from the Frasca folks in the same East Pearl Street building that also houses the new Pizzeria Locale.
 
FOOD NEWS
The Zagat 2011 America’s Top Restaurants Survey is out with its annual rankings based on diner ratings. Denver’s Fruition was named top restaurant in Colorado. Three Boulder eateries—Frasca, L’Atelier and The Kitchen—were listed among Top 20 in the state. Other noted locals: Black Cat, Flagstaff House and Jax Fish House. Also in Zagat, Denver-area tippers (frequent diners who filled out the survey) are among America’s most generous leaving an average 19.6 percent gratuity.
 
ON THE MENU
The best things I’ve tasted at local eateries in the past month or so include: Curry-scented Singapore rice noodles stir-fried with shrimp, chicken and pork at Spice China, 269 McCaslin Blvd., Louisville; Grilled chicken al carbon burrito with sour cream and topnotch salsas at Pica’s Mexican Taqueria, 5630 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder; chewy, wood-fired pizza Margherita topped with San Marzano tomatoes, basil and mozzarella and some pepperoni at Proto’s Pizzeria Napoletana, 2401 15th St., Denver; warm cock-a-leekie soup, house-baked bread and house-made jam, bacon-wrapped filet mignon, sour cream apple pie, and smoked Gouda with grapes at the Gold Hill Inn, Gold Hill; and earthy Gorgonzola-glazed mushrooms, French green lentils, and craveable orechiette pasta with bison Bolognese and shaved Grana Padano at Arugula, 2785 Iris Ave., Boulder.
 
CULINARY CALENDAR
The Boulder County Farmers Market has been extended through Nov. 13, finishing with the expanded Cornucopia of Local event on Nov. 20. It’s just a matter of time now until some version of the Market is open year-round. …At Terroir in Longmont, you can enjoy Pernod-steamed mussels with grilled bread, duck confit with duck pumpkin ravioli, arugula and dried cherry Marsala sauce and caramel semifreddo with pecan brittle and maple-glazed apple for only $26. It’s one of the real meal deals you can score during First Bite Boulder, Nov. 12–20, with prix fixe meals at more than 40 eateries including Boulder Cork, Aji, John’s, Alba, Laudisio, Q’s, Radda and Restaurant 4580, plus SugarBeet (Longmont),  Nissi’s (Lafayette), Treppeda’s (Niwot) and Empire (Louisville). Information: firstbiteboulder.com. (PS: Then there’s the lobster bisque, osso buco and molten chocolate cake at Trattoria on Pearl.) … John Lehndorff talks about food on Radio Nibbles, 8:25am Thursdays on KGNU (88.5 FM Boulder, 1390 AM Denver).

READER MAIL
“John: Can you suggest any decent places to eat that are open past midnight? We know there are bars that serve burgers, chicken wings and fried food items, but we’d looking for really good food.”

Readers: Any recommendations for fine late night dining in the North Metro Boulder County area? Send them to: nibbles@yellowscene.com.
 
FOOD WORDS
“True individual freedom cannot exist without economic security and independence. People who are hungry and out of a job are the stuff of which dictatorships are made.”
—President Franklin D. Roosevelt

(The annual Let’s Bag Hunger food drive in Boulder County is Nov. 14–24 at local grocery stores. Please contribute to this and other hard-pressed food charities before the end of 2010.)

The magazine considered small cities (fewer than 250,000 people) with quality farmers’ markets, concerned farmers, dedicated food media, first-rate restaurants, talented food artisans and a community of food lovers.  

Although he spends a lot of space writing about his hiking and biking excursions, restaurant editor Andrew Knowlton does laud and mention a slew of notable institutions including Dish Gourmet, Avery Brewing, Celestial Seasonings, The Kitchen, Salt Bistro, Izze, Bhakti Chai, Frasca, Pizzeria Basta, Left Hand Brewing, Boulder County Farmers Market, Sisters Pantry dumplings, Mountain Sun Pub, Mateo, Café Aion, Leaf, Kim & Jake’s Cakes, Bitter Bar and Sushi Tora.

Some of the more venomous reactions left on articles, blogs and as Facebook posts were from people who loathe Boulder and Boulderites and can’t imagine anything good happening here. Others allowed as how Boulder was a pretty place for a snack, but hardly a culinary destination and detailed the many failings of the chefs, servers, customers and food writers.

Local readers mainly complained about the food businesses that should have been included in Bon Appetit. How could they not include restaurants like L’Atelier, Amu, Black Cat Bistro and Larkburger, and chefs such as Hosea Rosenberg and Eric Skokan? Shouldn’t any appraisal of Boulder “foodiness” take note of the Culinary School of the Rockies, Seth Ellis Chocolatier, microdistillers like 303 Vodka and Roundhouse Spirits, not to mention outstanding tea houses, coffee artisans, mead makers and bread and dessert bakers? What about the fact that Boulder may be one of the best places to grocery shop in the U.S. with its wealth of conventional, natural, organic, specialty and international retailers?

My complaint is that when it comes to cuisine, no city—including the foodiest small city in America—is an island. The award should have been given to the Boulder foodshed, which incorporates Boulder County and beyond. After all, most of the produce sold at Boulder’s famed market is not grown in Boulder. Haystack’s goat cheeses, Madhava’s honey and Oskar Blues’ fine ales are produced outside the border of the People’s Republic. And most of the folks working at most of the city’s food landmarks do not actually live there.

“(Boulder) is a bellwether of a changing food culture across our land,” writes Bon Appetit’s Andrew Knowlton. While I happen to agree with him, this is one Boulder foodie who knows that the city’s stature reflects the wonderful community of towns that form this tasty place we call home.

EATERY UPDATE
Openings & Closings
The charming, historic Gold Hill Inn has reopened for dinner after being saved from the flames of the Four Mile Fire. …Ted’s Montana Grill opened recently in the former Sunflower space at 1701 Pearl St. dishing a bison-centric menu. …Barbacoa tortas, sopas de pollo and coctel de camarones are on the menu at Ristorante 100% Mexicano open at 2850 Iris Ave., Boulder (across from the D.M.V.) …Coffee and wine are on tap at the new Bean and Berry, 305 McCaslin Blvd., Louisville. …T & T Jerky Outlet has opened in the Table Mesa Shopping Center offering mix-and-match dried and cured meats including venison, beef, turkey, elk and alligator jerky in a range of flavors. …Busaba’s is serving Thai fare at 133 McCaslin Blvd. in Louisville. …Karz Drive-in will replace the closed Sonic Drive-In, 50 Waneka Parkway, Lafayette. …Closed: Radek Czerny’s Radex Bistro at 2779 Iris Ave.; Ai Sushi at the 29th Street mall …The owners of The Kitchen will open The Kitchen Café at 1035 Pearl St., most recently home to Abo’s Pizza, Circle and Seven Eurobar. Also coming soon: Chef Jim Cohen’s Empire Pizza, 2525 Arapahoe Ave.; The Pinyon, in the former Bimbamboo space, 1710 Pearl St.; Oak on 17, in the former 14th Street Bar & Grill location; Backcountry Pizza and Tap House, 2319 Arapahoe Ave.; Five Guys Burgers and Fries, 1143 13th St.; Pizzeria Locale, next door to Frasca; and a Middle Eastern eatery concept from Udi’s Bakery at 1155 13th St.
 
FOOD NEWS
Boulder chef Ann Cooper, “the renegade lunch lady,” has been named one of the 2010 Chow 13, an annual award honoring the people pushing the food world in new and adventurous directions. …The Boulder County Farmers Market, which closes for the year Nov. 6 has been named one of the top farmers’ markets in the nation by Livibility.com. …Local breweries winning gold medals at the Great American Beer Festival are Boulder Beer (Business Time Mild ale), Left Hand Brewing (Fade to Black stout), and Walnut Brewery (Old Elk Brown Ale). …Boulder Creek Winery in Boulder took home a medal for their Riesling Gen Y wine in the recent Colorado-only wine competition judged by the International Wine Guild and the American Wine Society. …USA Today recently asked me to name the best burger joint in Colorado, a truly daunting task given the great choices. In the end I chose Park Burger in Denver. You can view the choices for all 50 states at: travel.usatoday.com.
 
ON THE MENU
The best things I’ve tasted at North Metro area eateries in the past 30 days or so include: the butter-creamy coconut-frosted coconut “lunch” cake at Kim and Jakes Cakes, 641 S. Broadway, Boulder; memorable soft polenta with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, fried egg and roasted jalapenos at Pizzeria Basta, 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder; big, affordable barbacoa torta (shredded beef sandwich) with zesty salsas at 100% Mexicano Restaurante, 2850 Iris Ave., Boulder; mouthwatering pork carnitas taco with pineapple salsa at Comida, the Boulder Mexican food truck; and the Mont Ventoux burger with bacon, cheddar and fried egg on a pretzel roll with onion rings at Reuben’s Burger Bistro, 1800 Broadway, Boulder.
 
CULINARY CALENDAR
James Van Dyk, chef at the belated Gateway Café, and his wife Noriko will present a harvest farm-to-table dinner and cooking class Oct. 17 at The Farmette in Lyons. Reservations: betsyburton@mac.com. …The recent Taste of Place in Boulder was a wonderful gathering, tasting and sale of pickles, fruit, salumi, desserts, chocolate, herbs, fudge, salsa and so much more hosted by The Root Sellers, a local club for home food artisans. For details on their planned pre-Christmas sale: therootsellers.com. …John Lehndorff talks about the local food scene on Radio Nibbles at 8:25 a.m. every Thursday morning on KGNU (88.5 FM Boulder, 1390 AM Denver). …Plan ahead: First Bite Boulder featuring $26 multi-course dinners at several dozen eateries is Nov. 12-20. Details: firstbiteboulder.com. …Send information about holiday season food, dining and tasting events to: nibbles@yellowscene.com
 
FOOD WORDS
“It’s easy to laugh, easy to smile, / Except when the service was slow, Then he was cruel, suddenly mean / Not like the man you know. / If he’s rude to the waiter and it makes your heart confused / This is lesson No. 1: Run.”—Dining dating advice from “Rule No. 1” by David Wilcox (sung at Folks Fest in Lyons in August)

But eventually, and thankfully, my tolerance for heat increased.

It was confusing, too, because “chile” was the word for the pepper pod as well as a sauce poured over my burrito and could also be spelled “chili” and include beef and beans and be served in a little bowl and topped with cheese.

It was during a spur-of-the-moment fall road trip to New Mexico that I finally, really understood the magic of green chile.

At the foot of a little trailer parked next to the very old, very beautiful shrine at Chimayo, I ordered quesadillas. The cook took soft, fresh tortillas and layered in white cheese and peeled roasted chile pods and set it on a griddle.

The result of that meal was a religious experience. The quesadillas were one of the best things I had ever tasted to that point in my life—even though my entire mouth was in flames.  

Everywhere I went I was entranced by the smoky perfume emanating from the roadside green chile-roasting stands that line the roads.

I bought a bushel of “mild” and watched as the green pods were dumped into metal mesh barrel that was rotated over a blowtorch until charred.

And then I walked away with a warm plastic bag that I tucked in the car for the long drive back to Colorado the next day. The aroma infused into the seats and stayed there for a week.

At home a friend explained to me the green chile ritual. First, I put on heavy rubber gloves, and I was very careful about rubbing my eyes or elsewhere.

One pod at a time, I peeled off the blackened skin and stripped out the inner ribs and seeds. These chile filets were then frozen on cookie sheets and bagged for a winter’s worth of stews, beef dishes, pork loin stuffing, quiche and sauces.

Pinon pine forest, otherworldly clay red cliffs and the intense sun in a too blue sky are essential ingredients to life in Colorado and I smile…and sweat a bit…when I eat green chile stew with warm tortillas and a cold beer.

Now, green chiles smell like home.

EATERY UPDATE
Open, Closed & Coming Soon
Former Frasca bar manager Bryan Dayton is opening a new Boulder eatery in the space that formerly housed the 14th Street Bar & Grill. Chef will be Steve Redzikowski, who has cooked at New York’s Le Cirque and Jean-Georges, and at Aspen’s Little Nell.  …Frasca is closed from Sept. 12 until late October for renovations. …A new taqueria, Cactus Wheel, has opened at 701 Main St. in Louisville in a former service station space. …The lovely Middle Eastern restaurant Arabesque at 1634 Walnut St. in Boulder is now also serving dinner. …The 303 Tasting Bar is open at the Boulder Distillery & Clear Spirit Company, 2500 47th St. in Boulder serving the company’s 303 Vodka and various infusions. Tours of the distillery are available by calling: 303.442.1244.  … The Absinthe House, a bistro and nightclub, has debuted in the former Foundry space at 1109 Walnut St. …The Marketplace Bakery is closed in Louisville after 26 years in business. …Coming soon: Veteran chef Chris Cina will open a new steakhouse at 2345 W. 112th Ave. in Westminster.

Food News
The City of Boulder and the Boulder County Farmers Market are finally looking into a way to make the highly successful market a permanent year-round attraction. With the area’s amazing roster of local growers, ranchers, bakers, chocolatiers, honey producers, coffee roasters, winemakers, brewers, jam-makers and artisan food producers, we hope they find a way. …In a blow to the American mystery meat industry, the St. Vrain Valley School District has begun serving an all-vegetarian meal every Monday at elementary schools with several meatless choices in secondary schools. …Meanwhile, the University of Colorado’s dining area in the new Center for Community building includes 60 linear feet of fruits, vegetables, soup and sandwiches along with Italian, Latin, Asian, Persian, Sushi, Smoke ’n’ Grill, and Kosher stations. With the opening of Penzey’s Spices at 1219 Pearl St., Boulder now has two high-quality stores selling herbs, spices and other seasonings. The Savory Spice Shop is just a block away at 2041 Broadway. Both compete with the extensive bulk spice departments at Whole Foods and other groceries.

On the Menu
Some of the most delicious things I’ve eaten this month are Tempura-fried roasted green chile sushi roll with cream cheese at Sushi Tora, 2014 10th St., Boulder; Meatball grinder—housemade meatballs, marinara and melted provolone and mozzarella on a toasted roll with sweet potato fries at Snowcap Creamery & Café, 615 Mitchell Way, Erie.; a warm, melty Cuban Panini with ham, pork, pickles, cheese and mustard with dilled potato salad at The Brooklyn Deli, 1515 Main St., Longmont; and a glass of memorably well-rounded Sangre del Sol 2008—a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend—from Alfred Eames Cellars
in Paonia.

Culinary Calendar
The Oskar Blues Taproom (The Tasty Weasel), 1800 Pike Rd., Longmont, hosts a women’s only tasting of cheese and desserts with beers on Sept. 15. Details: denvergourmettours.com. …Pastry fans will flock to Mouse’s Pie-R-Square Dance featuring lots of pie tasting and music by K.C. Groves Sept. 19 at the Altona Grange north of Boulder. Bring a pie and get $5 off admission. Details: kgnu.org.

Reader Mail
In the August YS I challenged readers break out of their crust rut and try one of the new local pizzerias. One reader took the plunge and writes:

“People can’t believe how different pizzas can be! At Pizzeria Basta in Boulder, the direction of the food drives this pizzeria: using Colorado and American ingredients without the trend of organic or local.  Such great simplicity to the food but it lacks nothing.  A unique, yet simple and balanced Daisy (Margherita) Pizza now makes me pass the corner pizza joint and drive a little further for what pizza
should be.”
 
Send your food and dining questions, comments and quibbles to: nibbles@yellowscene.com.

Food Words
“Nothing will benefit human health and increase chances of survival on Earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet.” — Albert Einstein

Real pizzas like these are almost never sold by the slice—each person gets a whole, thin-crusted pie. It is never thick or drowning in toppings and congealed cheese. With its lightly charred edges and bright herbs, it’s a thing of beauty, not to mention yummy. It’s what pizza started out as. Yes, it’s more expensive and yes, it’s worth it…if you like that kind of pizza. More on that below.

Here’s just some of what’s going on in our local pizza universe:
Lucky Pie Pizza has opened at 637 Front St. in Louisville’s former post office.
Award-winning chef Jim Cohen of the The Empire Lounge in Louisville is opening Empire Pizza in November next to Larkburger at 2525 Arapahoe Ave. in Boulder. Opening nearby: Backcountry Pizza and Tap House, 2319 Arapahoe Ave.
Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder is adding a separate café as well as real Naples-style pizzeria using only ingredients imported from Italy. Opening in November, it will be operated by former Frasca staff.

They join a crowded field of competitors headed by the first class Pizzeria Basta in Boulder where chef/owner Kelly Whitaker uses only local and American ingredients. Just recently opened are Boulder Organic Pizza and Martino’s in Lafayette dishing pies alongside such longstanding favorites as Ristorante Laudisio, Zamparelli’s in Lafayette, and Proto’s (various locations).

Finally, we note the closing of the restaurant that helped start the wood-fired pizza movement in Boulder. The 22-year-old 14th Street Grill has served its last pie from its wood-burning oven and final platter (sigh!) of its open-faced roast turkey sandwich.

Listen, I’m part Sicilian. I grew up in New England eating the finest Italian-American pizza. I’ve tasted virtually every other permutation in the pizza universe including Argentinean and they all have their virtues. Any time I have been foolish enough to start naming the best pizza joints, some good ones will be left out. Please don’t yell. Instead, taste the pies at the places named above and support the local economy. When you’re done with your research, email me a few words about your favorite pizzeria at nibbles@yellowscene.com. I’ll pass along the results in a column. I will also reveal the place I picked when USA Today recently asked me to name The Best Pizza Joint in Colorado.

Open & Closed
Fiesta Mexitalian Restaurant has opened at 2350 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, former site of Rincon Del Sol and Turley’s. …Eggloo Delights is serving Asian fare at 3033 28th St., Boulder, previously the location for Siamese Plate on the Go.
…Pica’s Mexican Taqueria has opened at 5360 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder. …The owners of Lafayette’s Magnolia Restaurant & Sushi Bar have opened kaTcH, a quick casual fish house, on Capitol Hill in Denver. …Kim & Jake’s Cakes has opened at 641 S. Broadway in the back part of Table Mesa. Cake flavors include tres leches, vegan chocolate, chocolate Bailey’s and strawberry margarita.
…7West Pizzeria & Pub, 526 Main St. in Longmont has opened that city’s first rooftop deck. …Coming soon: Freddy’s Frozen Custard & Steakburgers, 2250 Main St., Longmont.

FOOD NEWS
We were saddened this summer to hear of the passing of Lyman White, co-founder of Longmont’s Cheese Importers in 1976. He helped build a thriving food business, improved all of our taste buds and was a consistent supporter of non-profits in the area. He will be missed. …The Sister Carmen Community Center in Lafayette is making a special appeal for food donations. Contact: sistercarmen.org… It’s a very bountiful year for Colorado’s sweet peach crop. Buy a bunch of ripe ones from Palisade while you can. Put them in simmering water long enough to slip the skin off. Cut in halves and freeze on a cookie sheet and bag to be used later for pie, roast pork filling and smoothies… Boulder’s New Planet Gluten-Free Beer has released its 3R Raspberry Ale made with sorghum and corn. …And at this date, there’s still no kombucha at local markets after all such products were pulled from the shelves for re-labelling. Stay tuned…

ON THE MENU
Among the tastiest things I’ve sampled recently at Boulder County and North Metro eateries are: Cornish hen with lemons and olives, grilled merguez sausage, couscous, eggplant salad, mint tea and chocolate b’stella at Kasbah Moroccan Restaurant, 300 S. Public Rd, Lafayette; handmade steamed buns middled with shredded pork, plus gingery pot stickers, and pearl meatballs at Zoe Ma Ma, 2010 10th St., Boulder; and cool, subtly seasoned watermelon tomato gazpacho at Hosea Rosenberg’s StrEat Chefs Airstream kitchen parked in Downtown Boulder. Succulent Vit Quay Don—crispy duck with sautéed vegetables in garlic-wine sauce, at Chez Thuy, 2655 28th St., Boulder.

CULINARY CALENDAR
Colorado Winery Row, home to Bonacquisti, Cottonwood Cellars, Olathe, Garfield Estates and Verso Cellars wineries at 4640 Pecos St. in Denver, hosts a concert with wine tasting Aug. 20. Information: Coloradowineryrow.com… Frasca hosts a four-course local harvest dinner with favorite summer wines Aug. 30 before it closes for a month of renovations. 303.442.6966. …Braised Kurobata pork cheeks and Hakuri turnips paired with Brabant Barrel Aged Zinfandel Ale is on the menu for the Flagstaff House Avery Beer dinner Sept. 14. Reservations: 303.442.4640. …Plan ahead: Get your tickets now if you want to are planning to attend the Great American Beer Festival Sept. 16-18 in Denver. Long gone are the days when you could buy tickets at the door. Information: greatamericanbeerfestival.com. Now is also the time to secure your reservations for the wonderful holiday season teas at the Hotel Boulderado. Reservations: 303.442.4344. …Calling all professional pie-makers! I’ll be among the judges on hand for a big pie contest Sept. 3 at Denver’s annual Taste of Colorado. Radio food show host Pat Miller is hosting the competition at the Greek Amphitheater in Civic Center Park. The category is simply your favorite and best pie. If you’re interested in entering the contest, contact me at: Nibbles@yellowscene.com.
…For more on food locally and nationally, consult the Nibbles Food Trend Blog: johnlehndorff.wordpress.com.

FOOD WORDS
You can put ‘em in a salad, put ‘em in a stew / You can make your own, very own tomato juice / You can eat ‘em with eggs, you can eat ‘em with gravy / You can eat ‘em with beans, pinto or navy / Put em on the side, put em on the middle / Home grown tomatoes on a hot cake griddle.
—Homegrown Tomatoes, Guy Clark

Spicy calamari: Japango. 1136 Pearl St., Boulder, 303.938.0330. Japango’s calamari appetizer includes sautéed, never deep-fried squid liberally splashed with Sriracha, the thick red pepper hot sauce. We like it with sashimi and a little sinus-clearing wasabi on the side.

Pete’s Heat hot sauce: Tortugas, 218 Coffman St., Longmont, 303-772-6954. Whether you order etouffee or grilled mahi at Tortuga’s, Longmont’s Caribbean-influenced restaurant, always get some of the house-made Pete’s Heat hot sauce. It’s amazing stuff made from ground mustard, papaya, habanero, pineapple, honey and herbs. It’s also sold bottled at the restaurant and online.
 
Lobito agua chiles: Colorado Steakhouse & Mexican Grill, 11961 Bradburn Blvd., Westminster, 720.937.5749. Big citrus-y shrimp are cooked in tomato sauce with cukes, onions and tons of blistering dried chiles for a bigger-than-life impact. Eat it in 20 minutes without drinking anything and it’s free; otherwise, it’s $12.

Green curry with chicken: U.S.Thai, 5228 25th Ave., Edgewater, 303.233.3345. Order this authentic eatery’s green curry with chicken, bamboo shoot, Thai basil, coconut milk, and vegetables and then say “Thai hot.” The servers will ask you if you’re sure. Say “yes” and be prepared to sweat your way to an out of body experience.
 
Chile verde: Efrain’s Mexican Restaurant III, 451 S. Pratt Parkway, Longmont, 720.494.0777. Efrain’s dishes true Northern Mexican-style hot green chile. The bowl of spice-flecked broth is packed with roasted peppers and chunks of fall-apart pork with a flaming bite that scares you and then beckons you back for more. Lay in an ample supply of flour tortillas, chips, water and beer.
 
Buffalo-style hot wings:  Willy’s Wings, 109 Bear Creek Lane, Morrison, 303.697.1232. For some places chicken wings are just an appetizer. At Willy’s, it’s more like a religion. Order 10, 20, 30 or 100 of the meaty wings straight from the fryer. We like to get both the four alarm XX-hot sauce and the more sweetly complex spicy barbecue sauce. On the side they have corn dogs, deep-fried Rocky Mountain oysters and deep-fried apple turnover or cheesecake.
 
Lamb vindaloo: Kathmandu Restaurant, 110 North Jefferson St., Nederland, 303.258.1169. The lamb vindaloo ordered “hot” at this mountain town eatery is what we call sneaky-spicy. You take a bite and notice the many flavorings, the tender meat and subtle tart undertones before this urgent blaze flickers and grows until you’re left slightly dazed but quite happy with a sweaty forehead.  

Cool tip: To cool the BTU’s (actually Scoville Units) in your mouth, some suggest milk but beer is more effective. The best of all is spirits—i.e., tequila, vodka, brandy, etc—because alcohol most easily dissolves the heat-inducing oil containing capsaicin, and frankly dulls the habanero agony. Another great reason to drink tequila with your green chile!
 
Got a fiery favorite on a local menu? Don’t keep it to yourself. Let us know at nibbles@yellowscene.com.

FOOD NEWS
Keep an eye out this summer for a silvery Airstream trailer at Chautauqua, the Louisville Street Faire and the Twenty Ninth Street Mall. Top Chef winner Hosea Rosenberg and partner Laura Rice are debuting StrEat Chefs, a gourmet food truck. Their goal is to launch a national street food company.…Oliv You & Me, 2043 Broadway next to the Savory Spice Shop, is the first Boulder County store to carry my favorite artisan salumi crafted by Denver’s new Il Mondo Vecchio. The shop also sells a world of fine olive oils plus a light lunch including soup, sandwiches and quiche.…Oliv You & Me is one of the stops for the recently launched Local Table Tours. The Saturday Market to Table Tour on June 19 starts with an insider’s visit to the Boulder County Farmer’s Market and finishes at nearby restaurants for a tasting of dishes using local ingredients. Details at: localtabletours.com.

EATERY UPDATE
The folks who operate the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse, Leaf, Aji and Huckleberry have opened the doors of Zucca Italian Ristorante at 808 Main St., Louisville. …Zoe Ma Ma is open at 2010 10th St. (between Pasta J’s and Sushi Tora) offering Asian street food favorites.…The Cheeky Monk is pouring 38 Belgian ales and American craft brews at Orchard Town Center, 14694 Orchard Parkway, Westminster. The café and bar is also open in Winter Park and Denver.…India’s Clay Oven is serving favorite curries at 5290 Arapahoe Ave. in the former Royal Peacock spot.…The bike-themed Rueben’s Burger Bistro is dishing various burgers on pretzel buns at 1800 Broadway.…Coming soon: In a clear case of gastronomic irony, the meat-glorifying Ted’s Montana Grill will fill the former veggie-friendly Sunflower space at 1701 Pearl St., Boulder.

CULINARY CALENDAR
Free tastes of Chocolate Raspberry Mousse Torte and Raspberry Bliss dessert drinks are on the menu as A Grand Finale hosts Eat Dessert First 5–8pm June 11 at 489 N. Highway 287, Lafayette.…The puckered-up Rhubarb Festival June 13 in Pine Grove features a pancake breakfast with rhubarb sauce, rhubarb pie and a celebrated rhubarb cooking contest; details at historicpinegrove.com.…Well, $295 tickets for the grand tasting pavilion are still available for the major domo of American food festivals, the FOOD & WINE Classic June 18-20 in Aspen. If you want to hang out with Mario Batali, David Chang, Giada De Laurentiis, Thomas Keller, Jacques Pépin, Tom Colicchio and Rick Bayless be prepared to dish out the big bucks. I’d go just to sit in on Joshua Wesson’s Haute Dog session: pairing vino with wieners. For information check out foodandwine.com/classic-in-aspen. …The Greenbriar Inn hosts a Lefthand Brewing Company beer dinner July 22. greenbriarinn.com, 303.440.7979. …Can Man handle The West End Tavern’s wing king challenge? Find out on June 16 at 7pm, when Travel Channel’s Man vs. Food takes on Boulder. Watch it at the tavern to take advantage of food and drink specials.…For even deeper immersion in our local foodshed, join me for Radio Nibbles 8:25am Thursdays on KGNU (88.5 FM, 1390 AM, and KGNU.org), and read my food trend blog at johnlehndorff.wordpress.com.

FOOD WORDS
“You don’t get tired of muffins but you don’t find inspiration in them either.”
—Playwright George Bernard Shaw.

For locals, this is the season when the rest of our magnificent state calls to us. Here are a few recommended attractions along the Colorado Food Trail that are worth the drive.

Royal Gorge Dinner Train, Canon City
This is one Colorado meal you’ll never forget. It’s white-tablecloth dining while riding through some of the most extraordinary scenery the state has to offer. The menu includes a choice of entrée: prime rib, salmon, chicken, or vegetarian. royalgorgeroute.com
 
Coney Island Hot Dogs, Bailey
Originally in Conifer, the hot dog-shaped eatery was refurbished and relocated to a pretty mountain hillside with more seating. What hasn’t changed is the frankfurter-centered menu and delighted look on patrons’ faces. We’ll take one with everything…and a bib. coneyislandcolorado.com
Smith’s Corner Farm Market, Rocky Ford
Come July, the melonheads begin their migration to what terroir experts affirm as one of the best in the world to grow melons. They grow superb Rocky Ford cantaloupes but they don’t stop there: honeydews, watermelons, galia melons, canary melons, Charente melons, Denver melons, tomatoes, corn and peppers. rockyfordmelons.com

Gagliano’s Italian Market & Deli, Pueblo
Travel to this authentic Italian-American emporium for a truly hall-of-fame sandwich experience. The Stromboli-like Bada Bing is pizza dough wrapped around ham, salame, pepperoni, sausage, chiles and mozzarella that’s baked and served in slabs. This may be as happy as your mouth gets. 719.544.6058
 
Allred’s, Telluride
This is probably not the best bistro for anyone fearful of heights. You take a gondola up a mountain to 10,551 feet and a restaurant with stunning views of Telluride and the San Juan’s along with serious contemporary American fare and a deep wine catalogue. Allred’s is not cheap but you’ll never forget the meal. Service begins June 4. tellurideskiresort.com

ON THE MENU
Among the best things I’ve tasted in the past month or so at North Metro eateries are a near perfect saag paneer—chunks of firm cheese clothed in a savory, creamy spinach sauce at Tandoori Grill, 619 South Broadway, Boulder; three fresh corn tortillas filled with Thai red pork, tomato, fresh corn and cilantro salsa, cotija cheese and green papaya shreds at Suki Thai, 675 30th St., Boulder; a satisfying eggs Benedict upgraded with corned beef hash at the Garden Gate Café, 7960 Niwot Rd., Niwot; and a classic East Coast eggplant parmesan hero on a toasted roll with marinara and provolone at Steve Podel’s Brooklyn Deli, 1515 Main St., Longmont.

FOOD NEWS
GQ magazine’s recent “bucket list” of 50 brews of the world you should taste before you die includes some local favorites: Oskar Blues’ Dale’s Pale Ale and Old Chub, and Great Divide Brewing Espresso Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout. Sample one or more during American Craft Beer Week, May 17–23, sponsored by the Brewers Association.

EATERY UPDATE
The demise of the local dining scene has been grossly exaggerated, judging by a flurry of openings. A new Mediterranean restaurant, Arabesque, has opened at 1634 Walnut St., Boulder. …The old Burned Toast location On the Hill, 1235 Pennsylvania Ave., has been reborn as Café Aion, a serious tapas bar. …The Alley Cat Bar and Grill is open in the former Señor T’s space at 817 Main St. in downtown Louisville. Boulder Organic Pizzeria is serving at 1175 Walnut St. in Boulder in the former Yaki Maki location. …Helena and Chris Engles have moved their popular Jacks Corner Café from Firestone to 600 S. Airport Road in Longmont. …Coming soon: Rueben’s Burger Bistro, in the former Scotch Corner Pub/ L’Absinthe location at 1800 Broadway, Boulder. …And keep your fingers crossed: Lucky Pie pizza may soon fill the former Louisville post office.
 
Reader email:
Nibbles reader Laura Bloom wrote recently asking why Boulder County has such a dearth of eateries serving real, Southern fried chicken and asked for recommendations. Reader suggestions: Leenie’s Southern Café in Longmont and Lafayette; Huckleberry in Louisville, and Cora Faye’s Café in Denver. Send your suggestions to: nibbles@yellowscene.com.
 
Culinary calendar:
Boulder’s best-known chefs are rarely seen in the same place but they’re converging May 15 to benefit chef Ann Cooper’s effort to revamp the food program in Boulder Valley schools. Hugo Matheson (The Kitchen), Hosea Rosenberg (Jax), Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (Frasca), Mark Monette (Flagstaff House), Bradford Heap (Salt, Colterra) and others will cook a five-course, farm-to-table dinner at Pastures of Plenty Farm. Cost: $150. Register: tinyurl.com/27q76ks. …Culinary Connectors is offering a foodie tour of three noted Boulder eateries on May 15. Details: culinaryconnectors.com. …The social dining opportunity of the week, the Wednesday evening Boulder County Farmers Market, is open for the season. …Join me for Radio Nibbles, my weekly food conversation and commentary, at 8:25am. every Thursday on KGNU (88.5 FM, 1390 AM, and KGNU.org)  …Our favorite local flavor emporium is getting national attention. Mike and Janet Johnston, co-owners of Savory Spice Shop, host the Spice & Easy cooking show 7:30am. Saturdays on the Food Network.

Food Words:
“As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.”—From A Moveable Feast by Ernest Hemingway.

That said, I cringe when someone labels me as one. “Foodie” makes my lifelong culinary pre-occupation sound silly. The alternative monikers aren’t much better. “Gourmet” has become meaningless. “Gourmand” and “epicure” are precious, “locavore” and “foodarian” are political, and “eater” and “taster” are generic. “Gastronaut,” “gastronome” or “gastrophile” are gassy and unpleasant.

There’s no blood test to determine whether you are a person of the foodie persuasion, but research reveals some telltale signs. For instance, you may be a foodie if you hesitate when your significant other asks you to choose between an afternoon in bed or artisan butter-poached foie gras with Ela Farms pear preserves atop Breadworks brioche toasts with a snifter of Colorado ice wine.

You may be a foodie if…
You always know the shortest route to the nearest pho restaurant, pupusa truck, homestead cheesemaker and gin microdistillery. …You’ve already ticked durian, natto, calf brains, blood sausage, Sechuan buttons, miracle fruit, stinging nettles, lamb fries and black garlic off your food “bucket” list. …you won’t buy tires until the old ones are bald, but you don’t hesitate to buy fresh saffron, fennel pollen and Madagascar vanilla. …You have a map that shows where to glean wild asparagus in the spring, chantarelles in the summer and chokecherries in the fall. …You can argue the relative merits of Frasca, Colterra, Black Cat, The Kitchen, Jax, L’Atelier, Empire, Radda, Sugarbeet and Pizzeria Basta because you’ve eaten at each of them five or more times. …You not only know the difference between pancetta, guanciale, speck, and sopressata, you make salume at home. You get extra points if you know what lardo is. …you can name three previous restaurants located in the northeast corner on the east end of Pearl St. Mall where Illegal Pete’s now stands and four restaurants that were located at the Boulderado before Q’s and the Corner Bar.

ON THE MENU
Among the best things I’ve tasted at North Metro area eateries in the past month or so include mozzarella en carozza, irresistible flatbread-wrapped mozzarella grilled until gooey and served with roasted tomato dip at Basil Flats, 1067 S. Hover Road, Longmont; a near-perfect combination “bun,” a bowl of rice noodles topped with grilled pork, shrimp, chicken, and egg roll with mint, pickled daikon, carrot and cucumber at Black Pepper Pho, 2770 Pearl St., Boulder; a surprisingly spicy and meaty black bean patty, griddled with butter, topped with pepper jack cheese, guacamole, veggies, chipotle mayo and jalapenos on a chipotle bun at Smashburger, 1650 28th Street, in Boulder; and a classic Cuban sandwich: a griddled Kaiser roll filled with pulled pork, ham, mozzarella mustard and pickles at Dubbins Sandwiches, a take-out window at 1968 13th St.

FOOD NEWS
Denver-distilled Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey won Artisan Whisky of the Year in the Malt Advocate Whisky awards. …Boulder-made Justin’s Chocolate Hazelnut Butter was named Best New Vegetarian Product by VegNews Magazine at the Natural Products Expo West. …Boulder’s Spice of Life Catering earned the Best Caterer (Outside Denver) award in the Colorado Meetings + Events magazine Best of Colorado awards…Frasca Food & Wine was honored as one of the Top 40 Restaurants in the U.S. according to the Gayot travel guide. Meanwhile, Cosmopolitan’s list of “14 sizzling hot chefs” includes Frasca’s Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson. …At the Gabby Gourmet’s professional pie contest March 27 My Mom’s Pie of Niwot took first place in the specialty category with a raspberry marionberry pie and second place in the apple pie category. Shamane’s Bake Shop of Boulder took third place in the specialty category with a sour cherry rhubarb pie.

EATERY UPDATE
Leenie’s Southern Café is open at 2400 S. Boulder Rd., in Lafayette. …The tasting room of the new, organic Asher Brewing Company is open at 4699 Nautilus Court in Boulder. …Coming soon: Zoe Ma Ma, 2010 10th St., former site of Spud Bros; Quaker Steak & Lube, 10392 Reed St., Westminster; and Zucca Italian Ristorante, 808 Main St., Louisville.

READER MAIL
Nibbles reader Laura Bloom of Gunbarrel wrote asking why Boulder County is a “fried chicken desert:”
“My friends and I have looked hard but have yet to find real, home-made fried chicken: high-quality on-the-bone parts (thighs, legs, breasts and wings) that are hot from the fryer, crisp-skinned, peppery and juicy. I’ve talked to many chefs about serving it but so far no takers.”
Readers: If you discover any real fried chicken being served locally, let me know posthaste at: nibbles@yellowscene.com.

CULINARY CALENDAR
Join me for Radio Nibbles, my weekly food conversation and commentary, at 8:25am every Thursday on KGNU (88.5 FM, 1390 AM, and KGNU.org. …The Boulder County Farmers Market opens April 3; The Longmont Farmers Market begins May 1. …The inaugural Denver International Beer Competition will be held May 1 at Broomfield’s Omni Interlocken. denverbeercomp.com. …The debut Taste of Pearl walking tasting 2 to 6pm April 25 on the Downtown Mall teams Colorado wineries and Boulder chefs with local galleries. Participating restaurants include Brasserie Ten Ten, Centro, Flagstaff House, Frasca, Mateo and Q’s. tasteofpearl.com.

FOOD WORDS
“The rule is jam tomorrow and jam yesterday but never jam today.”—From Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll
 
ANSWERS:
• Café Circolo, the Heartland Café, and Golden Mountain Chinese.
• Winston’s, The Steak Porch, Fleur de Lis, Fred’s, and the Oyster Bar in the lobby.