As Boulder County distillers and bartenders expand their horizons to include an increasing number of ethnic spirits and concoctions, we, the drinking public, benefit from the fantastic array of cocktails that have joined the ranks of the old standards. Creative combinations, as well as classics with new twists, are set to reward the imbiber willing to stray a bit from the beaten path. Some special cocktails you could approximate yourself, but getting the ingredients—from organic fruit juices and lesser-known classic liqueurs to dwindling inventory of one-off distillations that aren’t available in stores—is challenging at best. For the true connoisseur, seeking out the growing number of artisanal distillers and mixologists along the Front Range is worth the journey. Whether they’re kicking up an old standard with high-quality ingredients and one-of-a-kind spirits from their personal stashes or flying off in a completely new direction, catching a buzz has never been so fun or flavorful. Here’s a beginner’s guide to what drinks inspired by faraway lands and liquors are to be had here at Boulder County’s doorstep.

Blue Agave @ Roundhouse Spirits

You won’t find tequila at the Roundhouse Spirits tasting room on Western Avenue—you’ll find something better. Ted Palmer and partner Alastair Brogan are serving up what’s left from the blue agave spirit he distilled three years ago and parked in American White Oak barrels (with a #3 char) to age. It was during the Mexican agave shortage, but Palmer was able to lay his hands on the good stuff. While the agave syrup came from Mexico, it was fermented, distilled and aged here in Boulder, so it can’t be called tequila. Regardless, the result is a bold and complex, yet delicately flavorful, spirit missing the raw, high-octane burn found in most of the cheap imported stuff.
The smooth, warming, faintly smoky, Roundhouse agave spirit is a great candidate for sipping straight. Its aromatic floral hints and subtle woodiness latch onto the alcoholic heat that gives your nose a tweak as you first approach—it begs to be sipped neat. But if you want something by which to measure all other margaritas, order up a Roundhouse Coin Marg, only available in the tasting room. Two ounces of the agave spirit are mixed with about the same amount of organic lime juice and just enough simple syrup to take the sharp edge off and let the alcohol shine through. The deft combination of tart lime, alcoholic heat and sweetness will place a benchmark on your taste buds to which you will compare all other margs. If that sounds good, don’t wait around; the Roundhouse agave spirit is only available at the tasting room because Palmer says there are only 300 bottles of his blue agave batch left.

Pimm’s Cup @ West End Tavern

While other “top shelf” eateries lean on their horns about locally sourcing their food, this iconic Boulder burger joint actually walks the walk when it comes to their bar. But in addition to the local flavors, The West End also works some mixologistic magic with Old World standards that have all but been forgotten by this side of the pond.
Pimm’s No. 1 Cup is a gin-based liqueur first marketed as a digestif and produced by a London oyster bar owner named Pimm in 1823. It contains a secret mix of herbs, fruits and other liqueurs which give it a deep reddish burgundy hue. On home soil, it’s typically served on the rocks or mixed with lemonade—the English version is clear and effervescent.
The good chaps at the West End have put together their own version that incorporates all of the above. The Pimm’s Cup starts with a muddled fresh cucumber and mint, an ounce of Pimm’s No. 1 which is then topped off with lemonade, a splash of ginger ale to finish and a mint sprig and orange slice for garnish. Served on the rocks, the result is an easy-drinking, refreshing cocktail with tons of citrus and herbal flavors and aromas that isn’t too high in alcohol. And when we say “herbal” do NOT think Jägermeister. Pimm’s is more fruity and herbal (think juniper and coriander) than the medicinal Jägermeister.

Hibiscus Cooler @ Dushanbe Teahouse

When Lenny and Sara Martinelli were putting together the teahouse’s initial menu in 1998, the first drink item on the list was the Hibiscus Cooler. And as other elements of the menu and drink options have come and gone (the selections of sangrias are outstanding), the Hibiscus Cooler has remained. And for good reason.
A muddy deep red to burgundy color, this cooler uses mildly floral hibiscus flowers brewed into a tea as its foundation. Teahouse Bartender Samuel Tallent keeps true to the roots of this chilly concoction saying the base for the mix hasn’t changed in more than 15 years. The aroma on this non-alcoholic drink doesn’t belie the sharp, tangy bite of the tea, which is mellowed with fresh lime juice and a bit of sugar. The whole thing is topped with soda water, giving the mixture a sparkling, bubbly character. This quenching drink is great for a designated driver looking to drive his fellow imbibers wild with jealousy. It’s that good.
The State Flower of Hawaii, the Hibiscus has a long history of use by Chinese herbologists and extract from the flowers is known to act as a natural sunscreen. The flowers and various spices are also boiled, which causes the mixture to generate a lather, which is used as a shampoo and conditioner. But even though you could wash your hair with it and get a nice tan, the Hibiscus is at its best when surrounded by ice and mixed with sugar and lime juice.

Zacapa Pineapple Colada @ Comida

While the romance and novelty of getting four-star food from a truck is somewhat lost in Comida’s restaurants, the overwhelming benefit is in the bar. Smart and varied beers complement the array of flavors and textures found in the food.
Like the food, the mixed drinks are simple yet extraordinary. Fresh ingredients creatively combined make working your way through the cocktail menu as much fun as exploring the food offerings. But as is the case with many top-shelf joints, it’s what’s not on the menu that’s fun. Case in point is Casalino’s own Ron Zacapa Pineapple Colada.
From that rich foundation of aromas and flavors, Casalino adds his own pineapple juice mix—including agave syrup, lemon and orange juices—cinnamon simple syrup and finishing with a splash of fresh lime and a pineapple wedge garnish. The result is not pretty—literally. This colada is a dirty pale amber color with little visual appeal. But once it touches your lips, the beauty of the flavor is undeniable. The punch of complex alcoholic heat from the rich dark rum is tempered by a puckering symphony of citrus fruits. And then, just in time, the cinnamon simple syrup takes its turn on your pallet, lingering politely as the others fade, waiting to be renewed with another sip. There’s only one person, in one place, that can deliver this marvelous concoction, and now you know. Drink up. And pass it on.

The Links cocktail @ Japango

Built with liquors we’d never tasted – like TyKu Soju and a foundation of Japanese Yamazaki 12-year-old single malt whiskey – this cloudy, pale yellow concoction with the lemony aroma has some tart that would pull your puss into a permanent pucker. But thanks to the inclusion of some Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur and the Soju (a 20 percent ABV, smoothly sweet, barley based rice and sweet potato liqueur), what could be a mouth-twisting palate crusher, instead becomes a satisfied smile.
Japango has stocked its bar with that rarest of ingredients: quality people. Regardless of whether you’re a booze noob and aren’t sure of the difference between Scotch and bourbon or you want to know if the 23-year-old Pappy Van Winkle’s is really better than the 15-year-old (and worth the extra coin — it is), the bartenders at Japango have the answer.
Smart, friendly and marinated in their craft, the bartenders – Dexter Hostetter and Michael Lombardo were on hand the night we were there – were happy to deconstruct the components of our cocktail, share the story behind (Dexter’s) Civil War era family bitters recipe and serve up a sample to make a point. As a result, the simple act of stopping by Japango for a drink morphed into an enjoyable, educational and fun evening. If there’s something more a bar can offer, we can’t think of it.

Tropical raspberry tea

You wouldn’t think that an uncommonly delicious, alcohol-free drink would be lurking amid the offerings of a national restaurant chain like TGI Friday’s, but there it is — Tropical Raspberry Tea — right there with a half a dozen other fresh and flavorful offerings.
Pouring outside the box, the Longmont TGI Friday’s has been tweaking its tap offerings to include more than the usual suspects from the national breweries. Present are dark and flavorful draughts from Left Hand, Oskar Blues and Avery, thanks to prodding from bar staff that know their customers have more discerning palates and like supporting the local brewing masters.
And that nod to quality and flavor has infused what would normally be some pretty mundane teas and fruit slushes tucked into a commendably varied cocktail list. The fresh brewed black tea is kicked up considerably with the addition of muddled fresh raspberries and guava purée. This combo gives the drink some body; it’s not thick like a smoothie, but it’s more substantial than straight tea. And to that comes agave sour mix — a concoction of TGI Friday’s that includes agave syrup and fresh lime and lemon juices — which turns this mixture into a bright, tasty, not-too-tart (or sweet) drink that would make any designated driver happy to be the sober one.

Strawberry-Lime Martini

Via Toscana is an Italian restaurant gem, hiding in the corner of the Centennial Center strip mall off Louisville’s McCaslin Boulevard. If you’ve never stopped by for dinner, introduce yourself with a visit for happy hour; hands down one of the best deals in Boulder County for price, variety and quality.
In addition to two dozen delicious happy hour food offerings, Via Toscana has a well-curated cellar of 90 bottled beers and a 500-bottle wine list — most from the key growing regions of Italy, with an assortment of offerings from France, South America and elsewhere around the world included for good measure.
But if you’re in the mood for something that will cleanse your palate from a frustrating day at the office, order up a Strawberry-Lime Martini created by co-owner Krista Castellino. This tequila-based martini includes fresh strawberry with strawberry pucker liqueur and fresh-made, in-house margarita mix (Amaretto, Triple-Sec and lime juice). This combo delivers a tart — almost sour — strawberry splash to the tongue that finishes with a mild sweetness and hint of smoky tequila. This and an assortment of olives is Via Toscana’s flavorful way of putting any kind of workday behind you, pronto.

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As local beer events go, you can’t do much better than Mountain Sun’s 18th Annual Stout Month. I like my dark beers year round, but some find the robust flavor and hearty strength of a stout especially appealing while caught in the icy clutches of winter.

Well, February is for you, stout lovers. The Mountain Sun and Southern Sun brew pubs—and Vine Street Pub in Denver, too, this year—are loading their taps with black gold and you will not be disappointed. Back again are perennial favorites Yonder Mountain, Thunder Head and Cherry Dip stouts (the latter made with a prodigious helping of sweet cherry puree). Head brewer Brian Hutchinson also concocted four imperial stouts (with alcohol by volume contents in the 8 to 11 percent range): Usurper, Addiction Coffee and two versions of the deliciously viscous Nihilist—classic (at 9 percent ABV) and a bourbon barrel-aged version.

Among the real treats during Stout Month is the visiting team. Stouts from internationally acclaimed breweries including Stone (San Marcos, Calif.), Bellhaven (Scotland), Port (Carlsbad, Calif.), Victory (Downingtown, Pa.) and Young’s Double Chocolate (England) will be on tap.

But be sure to check in at Mountain Sun’s website for the day and time so you can be on hand for the tapping of the various vintages of Avery Brewing’s Czar Imperial Stout. Mountain Sun Proprietor Kevin Daly has several kegs of this potent potion from vintages that go back years stashed in cold storage just waiting for their annual tasting. The event only lasts one night, so don’t miss it.

Spirited Growth in Boulder

Ted Palmer, owner of Roundhouse Spirits, tucked in a warehouse northwest of Arapahoe Avenue and 55th Street in Boulder, will soon own a 20-barrel brewing system. With it, he will be able to make his own wash (fermented wort from corn) that will get distilled in his 130-gallon hand-hammered copper still from Hoga Company. This beautiful piece of art cranks out an ever-growing number of cases of his award-winning flagship gin; a spicy mix of juniper, star anise, licorice and a handful of distinct yet subtle spices. “My grandpa made moonshine in a copper still, so I’m following in his footsteps,” said the Siebel Brewing Academy graduate. “We’re anticipating 200 percent growth in 2011 and, hopefully, for the next three, four or five years.” In addition to gin and a delicious Corretto coffee liqueur (made with Unseen Bean coffee), Palmer will add an organic Blue Agave spirit (don’t call it tequila unless it’s made in or near Tequila, Jalisco) to his offerings.

Infusions to Go

If flavored vodka doesn’t measure up, roll over to Steve Viezbicke’s 303 Vodka man cave, 2500 47th St. in Boulder. This tasting room offers a lot more than vodka. Among the delectables the Viezbickes (the operation is a family affair) soak in their spirits are peppermint sticks, vanilla beans, coconut, horseradish, blackberries/cucumbers, pineapple/jalapeno peppers and pickles. Yes, pickles. If you’ve never tasted a “Pickletini,” you haven’t lived. “(Our infusions) are from the heart; it’s not fake,” said wife and CEO Terri Viezbicke. “We just do what tastes good.”

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I’ve given out hundreds of food-related awards over the years ranging from local “best of” lists to the James Beard Awards, and I learned one thing: awards are designed to instigate debate and make people really mad.  

No sooner had I read that Boulder had been named “America’s Foodiest Town 2010” in the September Bon Appetit, then the complaints rang out.

The magazine considered small cities (fewer than 250,000 people) with quality farmers’ markets, concerned farmers, dedicated food media, first-rate restaurants, talented food artisans and a community of food lovers.  

Although he spends a lot of space writing about his hiking and biking excursions, restaurant editor Andrew Knowlton does laud and mention a slew of notable institutions including Dish Gourmet, Avery Brewing, Celestial Seasonings, The Kitchen, Salt Bistro, Izze, Bhakti Chai, Frasca, Pizzeria Basta, Left Hand Brewing, Boulder County Farmers Market, Sisters Pantry dumplings, Mountain Sun Pub, Mateo, Café Aion, Leaf, Kim & Jake’s Cakes, Bitter Bar and Sushi Tora.

Some of the more venomous reactions left on articles, blogs and as Facebook posts were from people who loathe Boulder and Boulderites and can’t imagine anything good happening here. Others allowed as how Boulder was a pretty place for a snack, but hardly a culinary destination and detailed the many failings of the chefs, servers, customers and food writers.

Local readers mainly complained about the food businesses that should have been included in Bon Appetit. How could they not include restaurants like L’Atelier, Amu, Black Cat Bistro and Larkburger, and chefs such as Hosea Rosenberg and Eric Skokan? Shouldn’t any appraisal of Boulder “foodiness” take note of the Culinary School of the Rockies, Seth Ellis Chocolatier, microdistillers like 303 Vodka and Roundhouse Spirits, not to mention outstanding tea houses, coffee artisans, mead makers and bread and dessert bakers? What about the fact that Boulder may be one of the best places to grocery shop in the U.S. with its wealth of conventional, natural, organic, specialty and international retailers?

My complaint is that when it comes to cuisine, no city—including the foodiest small city in America—is an island. The award should have been given to the Boulder foodshed, which incorporates Boulder County and beyond. After all, most of the produce sold at Boulder’s famed market is not grown in Boulder. Haystack’s goat cheeses, Madhava’s honey and Oskar Blues’ fine ales are produced outside the border of the People’s Republic. And most of the folks working at most of the city’s food landmarks do not actually live there.

“(Boulder) is a bellwether of a changing food culture across our land,” writes Bon Appetit’s Andrew Knowlton. While I happen to agree with him, this is one Boulder foodie who knows that the city’s stature reflects the wonderful community of towns that form this tasty place we call home.

EATERY UPDATE
Openings & Closings
The charming, historic Gold Hill Inn has reopened for dinner after being saved from the flames of the Four Mile Fire. …Ted’s Montana Grill opened recently in the former Sunflower space at 1701 Pearl St. dishing a bison-centric menu. …Barbacoa tortas, sopas de pollo and coctel de camarones are on the menu at Ristorante 100% Mexicano open at 2850 Iris Ave., Boulder (across from the D.M.V.) …Coffee and wine are on tap at the new Bean and Berry, 305 McCaslin Blvd., Louisville. …T & T Jerky Outlet has opened in the Table Mesa Shopping Center offering mix-and-match dried and cured meats including venison, beef, turkey, elk and alligator jerky in a range of flavors. …Busaba’s is serving Thai fare at 133 McCaslin Blvd. in Louisville. …Karz Drive-in will replace the closed Sonic Drive-In, 50 Waneka Parkway, Lafayette. …Closed: Radek Czerny’s Radex Bistro at 2779 Iris Ave.; Ai Sushi at the 29th Street mall …The owners of The Kitchen will open The Kitchen Café at 1035 Pearl St., most recently home to Abo’s Pizza, Circle and Seven Eurobar. Also coming soon: Chef Jim Cohen’s Empire Pizza, 2525 Arapahoe Ave.; The Pinyon, in the former Bimbamboo space, 1710 Pearl St.; Oak on 17, in the former 14th Street Bar & Grill location; Backcountry Pizza and Tap House, 2319 Arapahoe Ave.; Five Guys Burgers and Fries, 1143 13th St.; Pizzeria Locale, next door to Frasca; and a Middle Eastern eatery concept from Udi’s Bakery at 1155 13th St.
 
FOOD NEWS
Boulder chef Ann Cooper, “the renegade lunch lady,” has been named one of the 2010 Chow 13, an annual award honoring the people pushing the food world in new and adventurous directions. …The Boulder County Farmers Market, which closes for the year Nov. 6 has been named one of the top farmers’ markets in the nation by Livibility.com. …Local breweries winning gold medals at the Great American Beer Festival are Boulder Beer (Business Time Mild ale), Left Hand Brewing (Fade to Black stout), and Walnut Brewery (Old Elk Brown Ale). …Boulder Creek Winery in Boulder took home a medal for their Riesling Gen Y wine in the recent Colorado-only wine competition judged by the International Wine Guild and the American Wine Society. …USA Today recently asked me to name the best burger joint in Colorado, a truly daunting task given the great choices. In the end I chose Park Burger in Denver. You can view the choices for all 50 states at: travel.usatoday.com.
 
ON THE MENU
The best things I’ve tasted at North Metro area eateries in the past 30 days or so include: the butter-creamy coconut-frosted coconut “lunch” cake at Kim and Jakes Cakes, 641 S. Broadway, Boulder; memorable soft polenta with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, fried egg and roasted jalapenos at Pizzeria Basta, 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder; big, affordable barbacoa torta (shredded beef sandwich) with zesty salsas at 100% Mexicano Restaurante, 2850 Iris Ave., Boulder; mouthwatering pork carnitas taco with pineapple salsa at Comida, the Boulder Mexican food truck; and the Mont Ventoux burger with bacon, cheddar and fried egg on a pretzel roll with onion rings at Reuben’s Burger Bistro, 1800 Broadway, Boulder.
 
CULINARY CALENDAR
James Van Dyk, chef at the belated Gateway Café, and his wife Noriko will present a harvest farm-to-table dinner and cooking class Oct. 17 at The Farmette in Lyons. Reservations: betsyburton@mac.com. …The recent Taste of Place in Boulder was a wonderful gathering, tasting and sale of pickles, fruit, salumi, desserts, chocolate, herbs, fudge, salsa and so much more hosted by The Root Sellers, a local club for home food artisans. For details on their planned pre-Christmas sale: therootsellers.com. …John Lehndorff talks about the local food scene on Radio Nibbles at 8:25 a.m. every Thursday morning on KGNU (88.5 FM Boulder, 1390 AM Denver). …Plan ahead: First Bite Boulder featuring $26 multi-course dinners at several dozen eateries is Nov. 12-20. Details: firstbiteboulder.com. …Send information about holiday season food, dining and tasting events to: nibbles@yellowscene.com
 
FOOD WORDS
“It’s easy to laugh, easy to smile, / Except when the service was slow, Then he was cruel, suddenly mean / Not like the man you know. / If he’s rude to the waiter and it makes your heart confused / This is lesson No. 1: Run.”—Dining dating advice from “Rule No. 1” by David Wilcox (sung at Folks Fest in Lyons in August)

The post Beyond Boulder appeared first on Yellow Scene Magazine.

The art of pairing liquids with solids is no small genius.

Take, for example, the Slovenian wines we recently tasted at Frasca. Slovenia’s proximity to the Friuli region of Italy, on which the cuisine of Frasca is based, makes the pairing logical, but nevertheless unusual and exciting. Ask their Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey to recommend a bottle to accompany your meal.

Sometimes, the pairing is a little more obvious. At Longmont’s Richard’s On Third, for example, the New Mexican-inspired Southwest cuisine cries out to be alongside a killer margarita. With about 3.5 ounces of alcohol per drink, Richard’s excellent traditional margaritas will clearly knock your socks off. But if you’re interested in spinning things a little differently, head over to Waterloo in Louisville and ask for their newest creation (available this summer): a margarita with muddled cucumber and jalapenos that will both cool you off and spice up your evening.

The perfect beverage need not be alcoholic to satisfy a craving. We often go to Sun Rose Café in Longmont specifically for their sweetly refreshing lavender lemonade and order a sandwich or salad on the side. On a warm afternoon, there’s nothing better, and the herbal sweetness of the lavender manages to be fresh, never perfumey. And of course, nothing cools the burn of a rich curry better than the sweet lassi served at Himalayas Boulder.

Finally, as the meal winds to a close, many diners like to reach for a little something. May we suggest Coretto, the coffee liqueur from local distiller Roundhouse Spirits? The flavors of fresh-roasted coffee, a hint of vanilla and just the right amount of sweetness make this the perfect after-dinner drink, addition to your evening coffee or a rich sauce for your choice of desserts. —Lacy Boggs

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