Culinaria – Dumplings Around the World

Every culture may have its own version but the love of dumplings is universal

Editor’s Note: Culinaria is a brand new food column that encourages reader interaction and feedback while exploring the vast culinary world through chef Jessica Hersh’s eyes, and tastes! Try out the Fresh Pea and Mint Soup with Butterklosse recipe below and share your favorite dumpling recipe in the comments or email them to [email protected].

A coworker recently asked me a question: where to find the best dumplings in town and I responded, as one does, with a question of my own – what kind of dumplings was he looking for? Wontons, mandu, momo, pierogi, kreplach, gnocchi, kenkey, shumai, piroshki, gyoza, knodel, samosa, buuz, matzah balls, tortellini? And just like that I was off, down the delicious rabbit hole of doughy delights: filled or not; steamed, fried, or boiled; served in soup, with cream, over onions; soft, crisp, chewy, crumbly. Dumplings are as old as history (there are records of variations of filled dough being made and eaten for more than 2,500 years) and as varied as the cultures where they are found around the world. To borrow from Shakespeare, a dumpling by any other name would still be toothsome. 

Some of the most memorable dumplings I have eaten include apricot-filled matzah balls served in clear broth when I was the guest of my grandmother’s cousin, with whom I shared no spoken language but shared a love of food; my first experience of the classic American chicken and dumplings made by an old family friend, I was a child and the creamy, savory richness was a revelation; butterklosse in fresh green pea soup that my friend Hope and I made in the tiny college dorm kitchen many years ago; fresh handmade momo, casually offered by the aunties of my daughter’s friend when I took her home one day; and chocolate gnocchi with vanilla creme anglaise and raspberry coulis – a marrying of sweet, bitter, tart – a novelty that I still think about, 25 years later. 

We walk around with the entirety of the world’s knowledge in our pockets, which gives us the ability to enjoy foods we otherwise would never even know existed. Of course, gnocchi alla gorgonzola might taste of perfection when eaten in Lombardy or the pinnacle of pork and mushroom shumai might be found in Guanxi, but you can make and enjoy dumplings of all kinds in your own home. To that end, try something new tonight. Buy a new ingredient, look up a new recipe, and venture beyond your favorite restaurant.

Fresh Pea and Mint Soup with Butterklosse

For the soup:

• 1 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbs butter (if you use salted butter, you will need less salt later)
• 2 cups sliced fresh leeks (leeks tend to be sandy, slice and place leeks in a large bowl of cold water, stir and let the sand settle to the bottom of the bowl, remove floating leeks leaving behind the sand)
• 1-2 cloves of garlic, depending on taste, minced
• 2 10 ounce bag of frozen peas (or fresh if you have them – but never canned)
• 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth (you can use water but add a couple tablespoons of white wine and adjust seasonings)
• ¼ cup fresh mint leaves 
• kosher salt and pepper to taste 
• ¼ tsp nutmeg, or more to taste

Heat butter and oil in a soup pot over medium. Add leeks and garlic, cook until slightly softened (5 minutes or so, stirring occasionally.) Add peas and broth, bring to a light simmer and cook until peas are tender, about 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat and blend soup with the mint using either a blender or an immersion blender. Put soup back in the pot over low heat, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve hot with butterklosse.

For Butterklosse:

• 14 Tbs butter
• 4 large eggs
• ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
• 1 ¾ cups flour (all-purpose works best)
• ½ tsp salt (if you used unsalted butter)

In a small bowl, beat butter and then add eggs one at a time. Mix in flour, nutmeg, and salt (if needed) and mix well. Allow to sit for a few minutes. Bring a pot of water to a low simmer. Make the dumplings using two spoons to shape into small ovals, about ½ teaspoon size. Drop into simmering water, allow to cook for about 8 minutes. Remove dumplings from the water and serve in hot soup. If you have leftover dumplings, allow them to cool and store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator. You can fry them in a little butter and serve with plenty of fresh ground pepper for an ultimate comfort snack.

I will be here again next month, to talk food and answer questions. Please be part of the dialogue by submitting your questions or comments. to [email protected].

Cook, eat, be brave.