The Challenge | Indulgence Issue 2024

 

Main Street Longmont offers it all

Chris Curtis

I put forth the challenge of a meal focused on indulgence to the Gafner Group, who operate three concepts on Main Street Longmont. I wanted to see if they could create a meal that felt cohesive while uplifting local products. I also wanted an experience that anyone could easily recreate for an indulgent night out. The three concepts are within easy walking distance of each other on the flower lined, tree-filled street and I knew it would make for a great dining adventure.

Jefe’s | Longmont – The Chips + Dips Quatro

Extravagance: My indulgent afternoon began at Jefe’s, located at the southern end of Main Street. It was like walking into the epitome of joy. Bright colors abounded, juxtaposed with the dark floors and beautiful bar along an entire wall. The Chips + Dips Quatro arrived along with the four margaritas that make up their Margarita Flight. It’s an extravagant display of bites and sips that are made in-house daily. The guacamole takes the richness of the avocado and contrasts it with a bright pico de gallo on top. The queso ate smooth and creamy.
Coupled with the spice from local Buckner Family Farm’s chorizo, you can’t help shoveling it in with the gluten free homemade chips. A 50-year-old salsa recipe lightened things up a bit before I dove into the rich, earthy, velvety bean dip. Not to be outdone, the margaritas called out to be sipped alongside the dipstravaganza. The best selling toasted coconut margarita offered a tropical reprieve from the rich dips. The citrus notes of the house margarita and the delightful frozen strawberry were like smiles in a glass. Lastly, the mango, with a housemade rim, tasted like a richer tajin, reminding you why mangos are a staple in the margarita scene. Hannah, my hostess, summed up this extravagant appetizer indulgence better than me. “Why choose one when you can have them all?”

99 Bar Saloon | Longmont – Brek Burger

Decadence: A short walk brought me to 99 Bar Saloon. With its dark and rustic interior, patrons find themselves transported to an old time saloon right out of a Western, but with a bit of a chic, modern vibe. Decadence lurks in the dark corners, just waiting to be let loose on my palate. I ordered the Breck Burger. Cream cheese, cowboy candy — a sweet, jammy jalapeño concoction that served as a great bridge between my appetizer and main course rounds — bacon, lettuce, tomato, and barbeque mayo check all the boxes for creamy, spicy, salty, and decadent. My server asked if I’d like to make it a double. I indulged without hesitation. As I pondered the sides, my eyes locked in on the mac and cheese.

Dare I?

Oh, yes. I dare.

My burger arrived and as the juice dribbled down my chin and I dug into the creamy mac and cheese I was reminded that indulgence can take many forms and the decadence of indulging in comfort food should never be ignored.

99 Bar Saloon | Longmont – Old Fashioned

Premium: Copper Sky Distillery is located a block off Main Street Longmont. They strive to bring an elevated experience to their customers by offering premium spirits without the premium price. 99 Bar Saloon made fine use of their bourbon in one of my favorite cocktails, an Old Fashioned. The complexity of the caramel flavors, bitters, and demerara sugar provided a sweet reprieve from the richness of the loaded double burger and mac and cheese, allowing me to indulge more and more in those decadent bites, which deserve nothing less than a cocktail with premium spirits.

The Roost | Longmont – Bourbon Cheesecake

Satiation: Finally, I waddled my way up to The Roost, my third and last stop on this indulgent adventure through the Gafner Group’s concepts. Located at the northern end of Main Street, I found myself on their beautiful rooftop patio, the perfect setting for what awaited me. An indulgent meal should end with an indulgent dessert and it arrived in the form of Bourbon Cheesecake. The cherry compote reminded me of the luxardo cherry I shamelessly dug out of my old fashioned glass at my last stop, creating a great bridge between these two courses. The dessert capitalized on my experience through the notes of bourbon, orange-candied pecans, brown sugar crust, and Chantilly cream. It’s a sweet, tart, creamy combo with flavors and textures for days. I’m usually satiated by a regular piece of cheesecake, but this indulgent one definitely put the cherry on top of my meal.

The Roost | Longmont – Cherry Rye

Fulfillment: My Bourbon Cheesecake arrived accompanied by a cocktail dubbed the Cherry Rye. It featured a ginger beer made by Kures Craft Beverage Company out of Loveland. It’s an all natural product made up of only four ingredients that are all easy to pronounce. The ginger beer offered an effervescence to the cocktail, making it a complement to the indulgent cheesecake. The pairing occurred through a housemade cherry shrub. The shrub offered a fulfilling flavor to the cocktail with its blend of cherries, aromatics, sugar, and vinegar. Whiskey based, the Cherry Rye’s tart profile enabled me to return again and again to the cheesecake, creating a delightful conversation between the two. Fulfilled and satiated, I took a much needed walk back to my car and marveled at how these three diverse concepts came together for this multi-course, indulgent meal on Main Street Longmont.

Walk-Up Meals

Kristen Richard

Sitting down at a restaurant, ordering off the menu, and chatting with friends or family while waiting for your dish is always a nice reprieve from the world. But sometimes your evening calls for something a bit less, well, structured. Enter food trucks and dining halls. Peppered across the front range, these establishments serve cuisine from all over, all while providing a laid-back atmosphere. From the appetizer to the dessert, here are some of our favorite spots for when the “treat yourself” mood strikes.

 

Gator Tails Food Truck | Longmont — Gator Bites

Yes, you read that right, alligator.

Bryce Hansen, owner of Gator Tails, launched in December of last year, was determined to bring Cajun and Creole dishes to the Front Range. Dishes that he wasn’t able to find at many places out here. But why this cuisine specifically?

“New Orleans culture and food, well that’s true America right there,” said Hansen, with a smile. Admittedly, he said people from this area are sometimes skeptical of the truck as they have been let down before.

“We get a lot of people from Louisiana who are excited,” said Hansen. “But we also get people who are skeptical. Especially when they learn I’m from Indiana. But I have spent a lot of time studying and learning to cook these types of dishes. And after they try it, they almost always love it.”

One of his best sellers? The Alligator Bites.

“That’s definitely our top seller,” said Hansen. An anomaly, these deep fried snacks are served with remoulade sauce, which is the perfect accompaniment as it’s a mixture of mayonnaise, spicy mustard, horseradish, and a whole host of other ingredients.

Get Their Schedule Here

Chile con Quesadilla | Various Location — Mac Daddy Tacos

Christina Richardson didn’t set out to make a taco truck.

“Everyone has a taco truck,” said Richardson. “We wanted to do something different and so we started a quesadilla truck.” Chili con Quesadilla launched in March of 2020. And since it was considered take-out they were able to stay open. They quickly started racking up accolades and selling out of all of their … tacos?

“So, we became a taco truck,” Richardson said with a smile.

Richardson launched Chili con Quesadilla because she wanted to cook and serve the Mexican food she grew up with but couldn’t find in Colorado. Her and her family’s love for the dishes they prepare is evident. One of their best sellers? The Mac Daddy taco. It’s easy to see why. The perfect balance of cheesy goodness is achieved with rich melt-in-your-mouth pork. The mac has green chili mixed in, so there’s just a touch of spiciness.

Or opt for the Birria tacos. Richardson and her husband developed the recipe by traveling all over and sampling different types. Evidently, it paid off as it consistently sells out. Topped with Monterey Jack cheese, herbs, and lime for acidity, it is served with a consommè broth dip. This is definitely the taco I would pick after a long hike or bike ride.

Parkway Bar & Grill | Longmont — Dubbly Bubbly

You may think if you’ve seen one spritz, you’ve seen them all. That is until you order the Dubbly Bubbly. This show-stopper of a cocktail was created by Parkway Bar manager Rob Sloma, as a playful riff on the Barcelona Spritz with neighboring food stall — HipPOPs — in mind. Much like how these gelato popsicles are dipped in various toppings and sauces, the glass of this bright pink cocktail has a striking stripe of orange zest down the side.

“I love the community of food halls,” said Sloma, with a kind of earnestness that only comes from talking about something you’re truly passionate about. “So I made cocktails that are meant to pair with dishes from each station to help further tie us all together.”

The Dubbly Bubbly certainly is an excellent dessert accompaniment. It’s zippy and citrusy with just a hint of underlying sweetness. And while the outside of the glass is dipped in absinthe (to hold the orange zest) the aroma and taste (as you should lick the glass) play nicely with the sweetness of the actual drink.

Additionally, if you are not imbibing, or being the designated driver in the indulgent meal quest, you can opt for their mocktails.

Sweet Cow | Longmont, Louisville, Boulder -Root Beer Float

“It’s funny, you think you are just scooping ice cream but it’s so much more than that,” said Maureen O’Neill, director of marketing, communication, and tech, who started at Sweet Cow shortly after they were founded in 2010. “What we are doing is simple but it can really mean a lot to people.”

Community is key to Sweet Cow’s mission. “We want to create a community on both sides of the counter,” O’Neill shared with a smile. And that sentiment comes in the form of accommodating many requests to sample flavors to sourcing locally when possible. For instance, they use Ozo Coffee Company, which is based in Denver, to make their coffee-flavored ice cream. Additionally, they tap local candy company Hammonds for their hot caramel sauce.

And that sentiment certainly shines through in their root beer float, available in both their shops and trucks.

Now, you might be thinking, “A root beer float is far too sweet for me.” But it’s made with Boylan Bottling Co. Root Beer so it is perfectly balanced between botanical flavors and sweetness. The ice cream is creamy and sweet, yet still not heavy. It’s the ideal nightcap for even the most indulgent of meals.

Asian Pairing

Ryan Sullivan

Asian cuisine is a vast term encompassing an entire continent’s food, literally billions of people. Each person has their own idea of what constitutes Asian cuisine, but no matter what your taste, you can find something magnificent to represent this varied and often spice-forward region of the globe. This pairing highlighted the small establishments serving top-notch Asian cuisine in our area. Whether it’s food trucks, food halls, or hidden units in shopping centers between a laundromat and an antique store, these are all great places to discover delicious Asian fare. Here, reclusive, skilled chefs bring recipes from afar — from parents and grandparents — to the Front Range.

The word that kept coming to my mind as I tasted these dishes and drinks was liveliness. These chefs capitalized on the great strengths of the wide variety of Asian cuisine — bright, lively tang and heat, and a depth of flavor that requires the time and attention often missing in our Western quest for efficiency at any cost.

Mana Thai Comfort Food | Longmont – Tom Kha 

Even though shrimp claims to be the star of this traditional Thai soup, the real magic lies in the complex, multi-layered broth that’s almost impossible to describe. The sourness from lemongrass, savoriness from galangal root, creaminess and sweetness from coconut milk, herbaceousness from kaffir lime leaves, and heat from Thai chilies must all be perfectly balanced to create the ideal Tom Kha. This delicate task falls to the skill of the chef. Chef Noi Hoefer at the take-out restaurant Mana Thai, has perfected the process. She uses a mushroom-based broth instead of the traditional shrimp base, making the soup accessible to vegetarians while preserving the umami flavor that forms the foundation. This is the kind of soup I’d want if I were sick; it has a special quality that revives even the most downcast spirits.

Parkway Bar  | Longmont – Aichi Lychee

Hidden in the Parkway Food Hall is a bar serving unique and delicious cocktails designed to pair with the restaurants there. The Aichi Lychee falls somewhere between a highball and a sake spritzer, with a spicy kick from the ginger liqueur and light, floral notes of the beloved lychee fruit, native to China and commonly grown across Asia. It’s perfectly refreshing for a late summer afternoon. The cocktail is topped with an edible basil flower, to cleanse the palate before the next course.

Baa Hachi  | Longmont – Yakisoba with pork belly

Chef Adam Chan explained the principles behind his delicious Japanese street food. First, freshness and immediacy. He fries the noodles to order in the wok in front of the customer and serves them hot. He despises using a food warmer. Second, preparation. His Chashu-style pork belly starts with pork from the local Buckner Family Ranch, which he slowly cooks and marinates overnight to absorb the soy-salty flavor. The sauce for the noodles is meticulously prepared with a pork base, shoyu, and Japanese barbecue sauce, giving it tanginess and brightness. This preparation pays off in astounding flavor. Third, simplicity. During his time at Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago, he learned not to add extra flourishes to a dish just because it looks pretty, showcases technique, or follows a trend. Each ingredient should have a purpose and contribute to the taste experience. Lastly, Chef Chan emphasized that good food must be made with love. “A chef just has to care about what he’s cooking.” This, he believes, is the engine that drives everything.

Shin Yuu Izakaya | Louisville – Kubota Daiginjo Sake

Kubota Daiginjo is polished to a pristine 50%, which gives a smooth and clean taste that’s easy to drink — dangerously so. The polishing ratio means that only the purest core of the rice remains, resulting in a sake that’s refined and elegant. Sake’s delicate flavor pairs beautifully with a wide range of dishes, from beef, to chicken, and fish, making it versatile for any meal. In Japan, sake is traditionally paired with sushi. At Shin Yuu Izakaya, I enjoyed it alongside a barbecued chicken yakitori skewer, and the sake’s subtlety perfectly complemented the dish.

Bee’s Thai Kitchen | Erie – Mango sticky rice

Mangoes are in season in Thailand from February to July, and people throughout the region indulge in mango sticky rice, the perfect summer treat. The dish’s popularity and accessibility have made it a global favorite. A tangy, ripe mango is sliced and paired with rich sticky rice, then a sweet coconut milk sauce is drizzled over top. This is everything you’d want in a dessert. Chef Bee Kisich learned traditional dishes from her mother, who ran a small food business out of her cellar in Thailand. Now, she serves delicious fare from her food truck in Erie. Chef Kisich’s version of mango sticky rice features green colored rice, which she dyed with pandan leaf juice. She uses other natural food colorings to get different colors, such as pea flowers to get a stunning blue hue. The result is a bright and colorful dish, which is guaranteed to make your day a little better.

Decadent Breakfast choices

Dani Cole

Ahh… Brunch, one of my favorite dining experiences. There is something undeniably wonderful about having breakfast out of the house, and the North Metro area boasts a plethora of great spots to choose from. I love the whole experience of walking into a breakfast restaurant, the smell of coffee permeating in the air, sitting to in a quiet corner if I’m by myself, or in a booth with friends, and enjoying a breakfast that almost borders on hedonism. I set out across Boulder and Lafayette to find indulgent options for brunch food and drinks that will make your next brunch day sinfully delicious.

Rollin’ In Daisies Bakery | Boulder – Gluten Free Cinnamon Rolls

On a sunny summer morning, I strolled into Rayback Collective, a bar on 28th and Valmont that hosts mobile food vendors. I visited with Jessy Tierney, owner and baker of Rollin’ In Daisies Bakery. She specializes in gluten free cinnamon rolls that will make your mouth water. Often gluten free baked goods are painfully noticeable that they’re a substitute, however, the cinnamon rolls from Rollin’ in Daisies are a delightful exception. Indeed, even a seasoned palate wouldn’t likely be able to tell.

Tierney began her business in June, and said, “I’ve always loved baking throughout the holiday season, and really all the time.” However, after she was diagnosed with Celiac’s Disease, her baking had to change. She said, “Cinnamon rolls were our favorite thing. We’d crack the Pillsbury can and it was the best memory.” After a year of tweaking her recipe, she was ready to bring her cinnamon rolls to the public. The results seem to have been worth it. The taste, texture, and crumb are sublime, and as I peeled the cinnamon roll down to the gooey center, I felt the same nostalgia she talked about. Tierney said, “It’s really fun to play around with the seasons and seasonal flavors.” Her maple pecan and caramel apple cinnamon rolls are coming in for autumn, and she’s already thinking of holiday flavors. In addition to Rayback Collective on Wednesdays and Thursdays, Rollin’ In Daisies Bakery can be found at Boulder Farmer’s Market every weekend as well.

Tangerine | Lafayette – Strawberry French Toast

For the next phase of my brunch journey, I visited Tangerine in Lafayette. ,Chef, proprietor, and founder Alec Schuler served his most indulgent expressions of breakfast and beverages. I started my sampling with the exquisite strawberry French toast. The brioche French toast was beautifully plated to showcase the strawberries, and the flavors were as appealing as the visual. The slight tang of the goat cheese highlighted the fruit, while the almonds lent their nutty crunch to the flavor and mouth feel. The real surprise, though, came from the sweet balsamic reduction drizzled over the dish.

Tangerine | Lafayette – Tequila Sunrise & Iced Strawberry Matcha

The beverages were as delicious as the French toast. Schuler brought me a tequila sunrise, and while I’m not a tequila fan, Tangerine is well on its way to converting me. Rather than the traditional grenadine, they use a raspberry puree and swirl the drink to provide a marbled look to the drink that makes the aesthetic highly appealing, while balancing the fiery nature of the tequila.
They also boast a selection of mocktails for those who don’t drink alcohol, or maybe just don’t want to start their day with booze. Alec served me the iced strawberry matcha, a concoction to delight anyone. Their house strawberry jam, and an oat milk matcha is combined to form a layered look, and the oat milk gives a rich, creamy mouth feel. Tangerine also has locations in Longmont and North Boulder.

The Buff Restaurant | Boulder – White Buffalo

For the final visit on my indulgent journey, I returned to Boulder and went to The Buff. I met with General Manager Dru Libby. One of the main things that drew me to The Buff was the White Buffalo coffee drink. Libby said, “it’s a white chocolate mocha, it has Ghirardelli white chocolate,” and added, “It tastes like birthday cake in a cup.” Indeed, the drink is indulgent and topped with a mountain of whipped cream. Libby said, “you can add booze to it, and Bailey’s Irish cream seems to be the popular boozy additive for the drink, but it’s good as is.”

When I inquired more on the story of The Buff, Libby told me about the family-owned business that’s nearing its 30-year anniversary. She said, “Our expo is the owner’s son, so there’s some element of family that’s always been tied to the restaurant.” The Buff also features some seasonal menu items for fall and Libby said, “we’re bringing in a bunch of pumpkin and Fall themed drinks.” The Buff’s décor features buffalo paintings and a bright dining room that feels welcoming, and their slogan gives a double entendre encouraging guests to “Eat in The Buff.”

The Buff Restaurant | Boulder – Cinnamon Roll French Toast

She also brought me their cinnamon roll French toast, which she described as, “A brioche French Toast stuffed with our homemade brown sugar sweet cream cheese, it’s rolled in graham cracker crust, deep fried and topped with white chocolate frosting.” The crunchy exterior contrasts to the creamy filling to create the feeling of a cinnamon roll in a stuffed French toast.

With my Brunch journey reaching its conclusion, I reflected on the decadence of the food and beverages I had tasted. An indulgent breakfast is, in my mind, one of the simple pleasures of life that makes it worth living, especially if coupled with an equally delectable beverage, adult or otherwise. So, whether it’s Sunday fun day, ladies brunch day, or even just a regular workday, consider the options for something a little more opulent than your regular routine. We’re looking at you, oatmeal!

 A vision of local, elevated, and accessible

Deborah Cameron

Any search for indulgence explores how Colorado is blessed with abundant talented culinary professionals and fresh, local produce. I called on three Boulder County chefs, a mixologist, and a wine purveyor. I asked them to express their skill centering around a main course by Farow, who sources 90 percent of ingredients from within a ten-mile range of their Niwot restaurant. The resulting five-course meal supports the idea that culinary indulgence shouldn’t be heavy, full of luxurious fats, or overly dramatic flavors. Instead, it can be an experience built by consciously chosen ingredients and skillful techniques, reflecting a passion for caring for guests. Indulgence can be a slow sensory moment in front of a plate expressing most of what food can be.

The drink: Buona Sera
24 Carrot Bistro, Erie

I walked into 24 Carrot Bistro on a Thursday night, just as the weekly after-work Farmer’s market was opening. Beverage Director Jennifer Shillington welcomed me warmly as I sat at the bar. Then, she started to measure, pour, and stir. As she did so, she explained that the base is as much like an Aperol spritz as anything you’ll find. But in addition to prosecco, it includes apricot liquor, lemon oil, mint, grapefruit bitters, and Grove Street Meyer lemon liqueur, which was created by Mixologist DJ Reimer, who made a name for himself pouring drinks at 24 Carrot’s bar. Shillington explained why she chose this recipe: “The prosecco gives the kind of breadiness that goes with the pasta, and I chose the lemon oil and mint to highlight those elements in the dish.”

Upon tasting, it was light but satisfying. The citrus matched the lemon in the pasta dish, and the prosecco’s yeasty flavors connected with the eggplant’s fullness.

 

The appetizer: Castelfranco with pancetta, sherry and egg yolk
Basta, Boulder

Regretfully, I tried to squeeze this tasting between late-day errands and a hard stop to watch the first presidential debate. My stress was no match for Basta’s hospitality, and once I was seated, time slowed. I requested a Castelfranco, a semi-bitter Italian chicory charred in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven, which is the restaurant’s only cooking method for any of its meals. The green was dressed with pancetta, egg yolk, and a sherry dressing that blended acid and richness. I enjoyed it with the sourdough piata, which is straight from the wood-fired oven in which they create all of their meals. The salad was rich, as expected, with the bacon fat, and I could taste the egg’s creaminess, but it also had some brightness and peppery notes. This first course was light enough to introduce the meal with complex flavors that set the stage for what was coming next.

The main course; Eggplant Confit with breadcrumb, lemon, and mint over fettuccini
Farow, Niwot

In the three years since it put out its welcome mat, Farow has given Niwotonians and regional diners a place for jazz happy hours, special occasion dinners, cocktail classes, or just a bite to eat.  Their commitment to hyper-local, seasonal ingredients and ability to source 90 percent of their food from a ten-mile radius has earned them the slow food seal of approval. The dish for this indulgent meal was inspired by the opening of Balcom’s partner property, Baa Hachi, at the Parkway Food Hall. It uses Miso and fairytale eggplant in an uncommon way, so it becomes a fun balance of umami and citrus. The eggplant shines in an iridescent violet, the noodles are made fresh, and the sauce is roasted eggplant with a velvety texture. When tasting it, the rich lemon of the pasta contrasted with the firm and almost sweet eggplant.

The wine pairing: Gruner Veltliner, 2019 Wachau Austria / Grillo, Colosi 2022 Sicily
Boulder Wine Merchant, Boulder

If there’s one shop I consider a relied-upon destination for Boulder’s wine community, it’s Boulder Wine Merchant. Owned by Master Sommelier Brett Zimmerman, founder of The Boulder Burgundy Festival (sorry, tickets for this year are already sold out), people who love wine, are curious about wine, or are just learning about wine head there. So I headed there to find suggestions for wine pairings with Farow’s meal. I spoke to the store’s assistant general manager, Jen Burger de Jimenez, about her selections. The first selection is from a top producer in Wachau, Austria, and was made from grapes allowed to ripen on the vine, so it has a weight that would stand up to the eggplant richness with flavor complexity that matches the lemon and mint in the pasta sauce. Burger de Jiminez chose her second option, an unoaked, aromatic Italian vintage because its flavors of flowers and honey “burst from the glass.” It would match the pasta’s complexities.

The dessert: Decadence tart
Suti & Co., Boulder

I’ve always Turned to Suti & Co. when I wanted to enjoy something decadent in a relaxing, sanctuary-like space.  When I asked Chef Andrea Uzarowski to complete my meal, she provided one of the naughtiest options possible, a satisfying contrast to the lighter but exciting flavors of the other components. Her suggestion was a rich, complex tart. In it, a decadent, house-made graham cracker shell was filled with Valrhona chocolate mousse and topped with dark chocolate and pistachio praline ganache. It’s heavier than the rest of the meal and a heavenly finale to everything I had tasted.

 

Indulgence Goes Head-to-Head

In addition to the meals we tasted, here are our suggestions on a handful of more minor, two-course pairings from throughout the area.

1. Pizza and beer

• Pizzeria Alberico’s Carciofi e Proscuitto – crème fraische, roasted artichoke, and prosciutto di parma
• Wild Provisions’ Czech-style pale lager

2. Steak and Chocolate

• Oak at Fourteenth Mushroom rubbed dry-aged ribeye with Yukon potatoes, horseradish, and garlic aioli.
• Piece, Love and Chocolate’s Razbeverly fudgy flourless torte

3. Hatch chili happiness

• Santo’s sweet potato enchiladas with Hatch green chili
• Santo’s Hatch green chili margarita with Grove St. Hatch green chili liquor

4. Late night on The Hill

• Chicken on the Hill – Spicy breaded Nashville chicken sandwich
• Fat Shack – Deep-fried Oreos

5. Modern Mid Century 

• Spruce Farm and Fish – Bison and bacon meatloaf
• The Sink – “Buff Mac” Crispy mac and cheese with buffalo chicken tenders, blue cheese crumbles, chicken tenders, scallions and breadcrumbs