Discovering Chimayo Peppers | Foodie

Fall is chile season in Colorado and many like to debate the merits of Hatch over Pueblo chilis. But this year, I had the pleasure of growing and learning about an option that’s rarer, more complex and more coveted than either of those: the Chimayo pepper.

I bought the pepper earlier in the season, as a plant from Harlequin Gardens. To be honest, I bought it for the name recognition for the New Mexican town 30 miles north of Santa Fe in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. An old friend attended the Good Friday processional and brought me back some of the famed holy dirt from the Catholic chapel there, the Santuario de Chimayo.

I grow in a plot in Kenosha Farms Community Gardner, and with that much abundant space, am not afraid to try new plants. I placed the pepper in the ground, and after a few months of care, I was rewarded with about 15 or 20 fruits the single plant I bought. The peppers were smaller than Hatch or Pueblo peppers, but I’d still consider them medium-sized. They were beautiful to look at, gnarly and curved.

Then I learned what I had grown was smokier and earthier, with a nuanced heat that makes them ultimately a more sought out counterpart to New Mexico’s Hatch chile. It’s locally planted and has a much smaller acreage then Hatch, with even fewer farmers expected to grow them in the years ahead due to the next generation of potential growers leaving farming as a profession and moving to cities. It’s a cult favorite and its rarity is reflected in its cost. Counterfeit versions are available.

Chimayo pepper fans also pay attention to the chile’s genetics. That’s not surprising given that these plants are grown from seeds passed down through the generations. They’re also known to be hearty, though they grow best in New Mexico because of the mountainous region’s hot days and colder nights, they can tolerate adversity. Including and especially a lack of water. That’s something that occurred this season in my garden.

At first, I harvested them when they were green, but learned that the proper way is to wait until they’re bright red, then pick them and let them dry. In Chimayo, the few existing producers who plant seeds frequently grow them in their backyards, create ristras and let them hang dry.

Ultimately, I’ll make a powder with it and then use it to season fajita meat where the smoky flavor will stand out. I may also see what a difference it makes in my chili, salsas and enchiladas.I may also try it in beverages. Chili hot chocolate? A cocktail? We’ll see how much I have after it’s dried and ground.

In the end, I’m thrilled to have grown these, although the only thing I think I’d have done differently is to use three or four more. I can try to save the seeds for next year, though, and plant plenty.

My biggest takeaway is to encourage anyone to do the same. Plants might be available through Harlequin Gardens again, or purchase them online, though choose your source with care so your plant is as authentic as possible. At the end of the season you might find that one of the most coveted peppers is easily within your reach.