Restaurants Across Boulder County Permanently Close | In the Cups

Cristine Ruch found the building that would become Fresh Thymes Eatery in 2013. Before it opened several renovations were needed; including opening up the kitchen and putting in a massive marble countertop. Ruch hired a contractor, got the necessary permits, hired staff, and ordered the needed equipment by opening day just four months after signing the lease.

Fresh Thymes Eatery became an instant hit, earning Daily Camera’s “People’s Choice Award” for the best new restaurant. The menu was completely gluten-free, the ingredients came from local purveyors, and Ruch worked with nonprofits that helped food-insecure families.

Fast forward to 2021, and she had the opportunity to expand her business by opening up a grab-and-go bodega-like store. “When I signed the lease I was optimistic. Surely, the pandemic is going to be over soon, right? It’s been over a year.”

What Ruch found was a permitting nightmare. “During Covid, everyone went remote,” explained Ruch. “They made no effort to prioritize small business projects.” By the time she was able to open the adjoining restaurant a full year had passed. She was paying rent for nine months — she was given a three month reprieve — while not making any money. With tripled shipping costs, supply shortages, and rising wage expenses, it proved impossible to keep the lights on.

After nearly 10 years, she closed Fresh Thymes Eatery on December 16, 2022 and the newly-opened Bodega closed in January 2023. While there were many factors at play, Ruch blamed Boulder government officials for not being able to get her permits, inspections, and approvals done in a timely manner. “This caused a highly respected, decade-old business that was doing good for the community to close because they couldn’t get their act together.”

Closing after closing

Fresh Thymes Eatery was just one of many restaurants over the past years to shut its doors. Staples like Mateo (2024) — which was one of Boulder’s oldest restaurants — Murphy’s North (2021), Minor’s Tavern (2021), The Local Boulder (2024), and 1914 House (2024) all either closed or will be closing. Many cite similar reasons to Ruch — labor costs, rising rents, inflation, energy costs, and the lengthy permit process.

Shine Restaurant & Potions Bar, owned by three triplet sisters, Jill, Jessica, and Jennifer Emich also closed in 2021 after opening in 2018 — prior to that they had several other restaurants and gathering places in Boulder for 23 years. Similar to Fresh Thymes Eatery, Shine’s menu was entirely gluten-free, and almost entirely organic, and community oriented. “We worked with local farms for our ingredients; had art on the wall from local artists; and we had live music, poetry, and networking events. It was a place for locals to gather, share their gifts, and shine from within. That’s where we got the name,” said co-owner Jill Emich. In 2020 everything came to a grinding halt. Like many restaurants Shine pivoted to takeout. “It felt like we were missing the community aspect of Shine.” Both she and Ruch emphasized that they respected Covid concerns but the constant rule changes surrounding reopening put an incredibly difficult strain on staff.

Emich found if they wanted to stay afloat, they would need to compromise standards. “We served really healthy food made with high-quality organic ingredients. That costs money.  I felt like I was going to have to start making sacrifices for sub-par ingredients and I wasn’t going to do it.” Couple that with the rising cost of everything else, when they did decide to close it was “Honestly a blessing,” said Emich. The sisters have since pivoted to Shine Living Community, which offers classes in yoga, dance, breathwork, and nutrition. “It’s the same vision with a whole new format that reaches far beyond the four walls of the restaurant,” says Emich.

Looking Forward

“The consequences go far beyond the crime of not being able to afford to stay in business because of Boulder County errors,” said Ruch. “I have had so many personal ramifications because you don’t just close a restaurant like that.”

Many of us have put Covid in the rearview, but the restaurant industry hasn’t. Going out to eat is expensive. And it’s likely going to stay that way. “I don’t think consumers understand what it takes to put that plate of food on the table,” Emich said. “Especially in the post-pandemic world that we live in where costs have gone up. We need to form a deeper understanding and perhaps pivot to making going out to eat a special occasion.”

Like in any community, small businesses are a vital component of Boulder’s makeup. It’s likely safe to say Boulder County residents don’t want to walk down the sidewalk and just see chain after chain. “I hope people continue to support local,” said Emich. “I always tell people when you spend your money you’re voting with your dollars of what you want to see more of in our world.”