Off Menu with Julio Gaspar

Main Street in Longmont was bustling with people on a sunny Saturday as I made my way through the throngs to Teocalli Cocina. The blue and white color scheme and the traditional Mexican geometric pattern on the wall produced a modern aesthetic that noded to the rich cultural history of Mexico. Executive Chef Julio Gaspar who oversees all three locations has been spending most of his time in Longmont since opening two months ago.

We settled in a cozy booth to chat and before long Chef Gaspar went to retrieve a gorgeous plate of shrimp ceviche and a basket of tortilla chips. The color palate of the dish was surprisingly vibrant and whetted my appetite, giving proof to the adage that we eat with our eyes first. The shrimp mixture sat atop a mango habanero sauce drizzled with chile oil that had just the right amount of heat, it was garnished with sliced radishes and beautifully fanned avocado.

A myriad of flavors and textures danced in my mouth. It had the perfect balance between the sweetness of the mango, the acidity from lime, and the gentle warmth from the chiles. He told me about the process for their ceviche which varies just slightly from the traditional lime marinade where the acidity of the citrus cooks the shrimp. He said, “For me, it’s a weird texture. So, what we do is plunge the shrimp in lime and hot water for five seconds, then we finish the cooking in the lime.” Having sampled ceviche from all over, I can say that this was the best iteration I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating.

Teocalli’s Unique take on a Banana Split

Chef Gaspar then brought me the banana split, another beautiful dish of banana brûlée, strawberry ice cream, dulce de leche, — garnished with a peanut and sesame seed brittle called palanquetas — a traditional candy from his hometown in Oaxaca. It is a popular dessert, and he said, “Last week we sold sixty pounds of bananas, and it’s one banana per dish.” On tasting it, it’s not surprising that it’s so popular. The palanquetas lend a slightly savory note to the dessert that truly completes the balance of flavors and textures.

Teocalli Cocina’s full bar is equally enticing, and I’ll have to return soon for a cocktail, beer, or Mezcal. Chef Gaspar informed me of their great selection of small batch tequilas and Mezcal, he said, “We just got a new one that has guava and it’s a little sweet, for people who are just starting to get into Mezcal.” Additionally, they have a Mexican Lager that 4 Noses Brewing produces exclusively for the restaurant.

When I asked him how he got the bug for cooking he told me, “My mom used to have a restaurant in Mexico, and she said, ‘You need to help.’” He shared with me his vast experience, that he cooked in Mexico, New York, California, Denver, and more. It was clear from our conversation that his passion, and love of Oaxaca, drive and inspire him. He told me about his favorite food memories, “we have a Mole that we fly the chiles from Oaxaca, it’s a lot of work, but it’s just beautiful. We have a lot of seafood too.”

Longmont is a town on the rise, and we spoke about why he chose it. Chef Gaspar said, “We wanted to look outside of Denver, and we like the town.” He shared with me the plan for the next year to turn the lower level of the building into a speakeasy. “I feel like Longmont needs something like that.” Indeed, Teocalli Cocina’s chic and modern vibe fits right in on Main Street.

As our conversation reached its conclusion, I noted the influx of diners coming in for lunch, particularly for the patio. I wondered to myself how many would order the ceviche, as it felt like the perfect dish for a summer Saturday afternoon on the patio. Longmont is fortunate to have the third location of Teocalli Cocina. Chef Gaspar truly presents his culture, and passion with every dish.