Off Menu with Sugarbeet

Sugarbeet’s name is an homage to Longmont’s history where the Great Western Sugar Factory was an anchor of the local economy from 1903 until when the factory closed in 1977. The restaurant is nestled in a cozy corner close to the old depot on the train tracks that served as Longmont’s lifeblood. As a restaurant with a focus on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients, it’s fitting that Sugarbeet has such a deep connection to Longmont’s history

Ari Kara and Ben Wheelon, partners in business, purchased the restaurant eight years ago. Sugarbeet is a perennial favorite in Yellow Scene Magazine’s Best of the West competition and hasn’t let up in adhering to the ever-evolving farm-to-table concept they have mastered with Sugarbeet. The quality hasn’t diminished as they haven’t relented on their attention to the little details, including the adorable salt crocks on the table complete with miniature antique spoons. Kara quickly ticked off the keys to their success. “Our focus remains the same. Scratch kitchen. Customer first. Fresh and local ingredients. No gimmicks.”

Right at opening on a Thursday at 4 pm, an eclectic blend of guests began to steadily pour into the restaurant. A table for six of well-heeled sexagenarians were greeted with a familiar and warm welcome from Kara who was pulling duty as host for the evening. He hopped into host mode throughout the interview offering the same genuine smile to newcomers and regular patrons. Wheelon sprang into action as the guests were seated as he worked behind the bar. “We pitch in to do what needs to be done: mop a floor, wash dishes, whatever is needed,” said Kara.

Running a successful business hasn’t come without its challenges — the same faced by many business owners in a post COVID world. They each commented that labor is always an issue and costs have gone up significantly with overhead in the price of rent, food, labor, everything. To compensate for that, Kara and Wheelon have found themselves even more hands on than they expected to be eight years into owning their business. As experienced business owners, though, they are used to adapting to keep up with the changes.

In fact, change is constant at Sugarbeet. Crafting a creative menu comes with many intricate steps and considerations. Wheelon described the process of menu ideation where they get to have fun and be creative. “We start with an idea and then look at how we will source the ingredients, balancing cost and local availability,” said Wheelon adding that careful thought is put into every aspect of the dish including how efficiently it can be plated. No detail is left unplanned to deliver the best possible experience to the customers. Now imagine doing that four times per year. That’s what Kara and Wheelon clearly love about their business. When discussing the process of menu creation, their entire demeanor changed, voices became more excited and smiles broadened their faces.

Their passion for food extends to cooking at home. Wheelon’s dog, Coach Steve, who sadly passed a week before our interview, was the center of attention at family pizza night. Wheelon suggests a classic preparation of mission olives, mushrooms, and manchego cheese served with a gorgeous greek salad. Like many of the best chefs and restaurateurs, Kara took his inspiration from his mom and grandmother and loves to feed his friends Greek classics from his childhood like moussaka and stuffed peppers served with some daily fresh made bread.

As for the food, holy moly, buckle up and be ready for an adventure. Devin Nolan, who has worked for Sugarbeet for seven years, said that this particular menu is one of his favorites ever. “Just about every table has a Sea Bass on order and the Bistro Steak is also a favorite,” said Nolan. The current menu includes a tempting and creative variety of beginnings including Potato Croquettas that felt weightless in my mouth as I crunched into the most delicate puff of manchego cheese flavored potato.

Salads include a classic greek salad, which Kara said belongs on every menu. The roasted beets with Chevre panna cotta was served with a frisée, sunflower seeds, pickled shallots and a pink peppercorn vinaigrette. The panna cotta was velvety smooth and had the depth of flavor you expect from a quality cheese. A whimsical touch was the beet carved into the shape of a sugarbeet as a tip of the hat to the name of the restaurant.

The mains have eight solid choices including a gorgeous risotto, quail, and a rack of lamb. The Verlasso Salmon, which this Pacific Northwest girl absolutely needed to try, was cooked to perfection and served with a celeriac puree that I could eat daily, fingerling potatoes and garnished with a perfect pepper relish.

With a dining room capacity of 65, and this being a popular hotspot, you will want to book a reservation, especially if you want to eat early. “We often are packed with every seat filled and then no reservations after 7:15 PM. Longmont is an early town,” said Wheelon.