More Than One Recipe

Legacy restaurants add to the fabric of the community.

There are so many ways to run a restaurant. From fish ‘n’ chips to fine dining, I looked into three longstanding Boulder County institutions to see how they’ve survived and thrived through ownership transitions, family legacies, a global pandemic, and at least one misspelling of the owner’s last name on an Irish-themed sign.

Palpable Energy on the Menu

When I first moved to Longmont, there was one place I walked past nearly every day that was always buzzing. Tuesday at lunch, 9 p.m. on a Thursday night, there was always some energy to it. In 2026, in this economy, I was curious about a place with that kind of pull.

A few months later, Pumphouse Brewery had become a regular in my rotation. The firehouse-themed eatery draws beer-drinking sports fans and families alike, built on a reputation for good service and generous portions. On a recent visit, I noticed a new menu celebrating the restaurant’s 30th birthday. As a ’96 baby myself, I couldn’t help but wonder how this place had stood the test of time.

Who better to pull back the curtain than long-time General Manager Ross Hagen. Hagen was a law school student when he started serving tables at Pumphouse in May 1997. He quickly gelled with the original owners, four friends who happened to also be aerospace engineers, and worked his way up through the ranks, buying in as a partner in 2000. After deciding law wasn’t his true calling, he found that the pace and energy of the restaurant world was exactly where he wanted to be. He’s been all in ever since.

Running a broad menu isn’t simple, and Hagen doesn’t pretend otherwise. “It’s gotta taste good. It’s got to be something we can execute consistently,” he said. He knows the “something for everybody” model isn’t for everyone. “Most operators starting up would shy against the breadth of what we’re doing.” What makes it work, he says, is structure: strict recipe standards, plating consistency, and a management team larger than most comparable restaurants. “It really requires that everybody’s on the same page, absolutely busting their butt, every day. There’s no way around that.”

That broad menu is also strategic. Hagen knows Pumphouse’s staying power depends on becoming the neighborhood’s go-to for both date nights and family dinners. “You have to develop regulars and keep them. It’s what matters.” A dedicated back-of-house staff, many of whom have been with the restaurant for decades, has made that consistency possible.

The COVID-19 pandemic prompted a hard look at Pumphouse’s future. The answer, original ownership decided, was a transition to employee ownership. In 2022, the business was sold to Teamshares, a company that converts acquired businesses to employee-owned models over time. Every Pumphouse employee, from longtime chefs to part-time dishwashers, became a 20% owner, receiving stock and dividend checks nearly every month.

The goal is 80% employee ownership within 15 years. Hagen sees it as the best available path. “If it’s not going to be a fully independently owned restaurant like it was from the five of us, maybe the next best thing is to have it employee owned, as opposed to just selling out to some restaurant group that may or may not keep the character in place.” Though no longer an owner in the traditional sense, his commitment hasn’t shifted. “As long as I’m here, I’ll continue to run the place with an owner’s eyes and the mentality that this is a legacy business, and I don’t want it to decline on any level.”

A 40+ Year Longmont Fixture

Less than a block down Main Street, you’ll find a place that has the Pumphouse beat by 15 years. Mike O’Shays has been a fixture in downtown Longmont since 1981, when New Jersey natives Mike and Nania Shea opened the Irish pub, their last name slightly altered on the sign in a spelling that just stuck. Shea was once quoted calling it a “stay with it” place, and walking in today, you understand exactly what he meant.

General Manager Jen Burchette is the engine of Mike O’Shays. On any given afternoon, she might be welcoming a regular, interviewing a prospective bartender, and signing for a liquor delivery, sometimes in the same 10-minute window. Burchette says Shea built something that didn’t need much propping up. “This place stands on its own.” His hands-on ownership style cultivated a loyalty that has proven remarkably durable. Burchette says they’re generations deep into regulars now, and she hopes it just keeps going. Head Chef Martín, who has been with the restaurant for 30 years, has grown alongside the menu, finding creative freedom in exploring Irish cuisine.

The restaurant has navigated change, including a shift in ownership that brought menu updates and operational adjustments with mixed reactions from longtime patrons. Through it all, Mike O’Shays has held onto what it’s always been: a neighborhood place built on a little bit of grit and a lot of community.

A Generational Dining Destination

From Longmont’s Main Street, head up Baseline Road into the Boulder foothills, and you’ll find Flagstaff House, a fine dining institution with a view to match and a family story spanning three generations. Adam Monette is the restaurant’s co-owner and general manager. He’s the third member of his family to hold that role. His grandfather, Don Monette, bought the property in 1971 and moved his family onto the five-acre mountainside lot where he set about turning what had been a home — possibly destined to become a cabin or ranger station — into a year-round restaurant. Don liquidated three downtown restaurants to make it happen. “It really never should have existed in the first place,” Adam reflected. “But with his foresight and ability to put things together, he saw an opportunity that really wasn’t there at the time.” At its peak, 18 members of the Monette family were working within the restaurant’s ranks. “It was, quite literally, a family affair.”

Don’s connection to Colorado began in the 1950s, when he was stationed at Camp Hale in Leadville as part of the 10th Mountain Division. The mountains left a mark, and after marrying his wife Carol in Michigan, he insisted they move back to the Centennial State. Adam still speaks of him with reverence. “Don is honestly the foundation of this restaurant. But certainly, in many ways, he was my idol.”

That reverence shows up in how the place is run. Flagstaff House is fine dining, but Monette is deliberate about the atmosphere it projects. “Fine dining comes off as pretentious and snooty more often than not. You don’t hear those words here, because we make sure that we’re not.” Staff longevity mirrors the family’s own investment. Employees with over 35 years of service have retired from their posts while promotions into management have nearly always come from within. “Every time we’ve promoted into management, with very few exceptions, it’s been someone who has proven themselves from day one, probably starting as a food runner,” Monette said.

Another example of their commitment to the community can be found on their awards shelf. Flagstaff House recently received the Snail of Approval from Slow Food Boulder County, a non-profit dedicated to fostering a “good, clean, and fair” food system in the region.

From employee ownership to navigating a new proprietor’s vision to stewarding a grandfather’s dream, there is more than one recipe for longevity in the restaurant world. But a few ingredients keep showing up: people who refuse to treat the work as temporary, communities willing to keep coming back, and an understanding that the restaurant belongs, in some way, to everyone who walks through the door.

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