Off Menu with Mariano Rodriguez

On a warm, though partly cloudy day, I walked into the counter-service location situated just off Highway 287 and south of the Kaiser Permanente campus to meet with chef and owner of Off Campus Cafe, Mariano Rodriguez. I noted the cozy café atmosphere and cleanliness of the dining room. While much of the menu centers on standard American breakfast and lunch fare, the Yucatán options and specials are particularly appealing.

I settled into a booth seat and before long Chef Rodriguez brought out a veritable smorgasbord of food to sample. The colors of his coconut shrimp salad were striking, and the mango dressing was delicious. He presented an achiote marinated chicken tamale, wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husk, smothered in salsa verde, and topped with gooey cheese. The fluffy masa was cooked melt-in-your-mouth perfectly, and the chicken was tender and juicy.

Perhaps my personal favorite was the panuchos. A specialty of Yucatán where the handmade tortillas are stuffed with refried black beans and topped with the same fantastic chicken, tomato, lettuce, pickled jalapeño, avocado, and pickled red onion. The black beans inside the tortilla took the tacos up a notch and gave an inexplicably savory flavor to the dish. Chef Rodriguez’s wife, Norma, helps in the kitchen and makes a delightful habanero salsa for those who want a little extra kick.

The tortillas and beans being made in house is unique, but most unique is that Chef Rodriguez’s brother makes the achiote condiment in Mexico and sends it to him here. When asked why, Chef Rodriguez said, “I tried to make it here, but the annatto seeds are totally different.” His response showed that terroir applies to more than just wine and that it matters where the food is grown too.

We spoke about what inspired Chef Rodriguez to begin his cooking career. He said, “My mom used to make grilled chicken, and right off the grill, it was really good.” He continued, “I’ve been cooking since I was 16 or 17, and I would help my mom a lot.” He attended culinary school in Merida and Cancún and worked in Mexico before coming to the U.S.

Chef Rodriguez talked about how he likes to mix things up and offer specials. He told me a story about how the cafe has semi-regular guests, two of whom are a mother and her young daughter who enjoy going to Off Campus Cafe because there’s always something different to eat. He said he made them sushi rolls, one of which was a twist on his Baja chicken sandwich. He said, “I like to play with food and make something different.”

The heartfelt stories he shared about his guests gave a personal touch to the family-owned and operated eatery. He spoke about an older couple who finally succeeded at bringing their friend to Off Campus Cafe and made a regular customer out of him as well. Another guest had plans to visit Yucatán about a month after his visit to the restaurant. Chef Rodriguez said, “I was kind of joking with him, but I told him my brother lives in my hometown. If you visited him, he would give you a tour.” The guest returned to the restaurant some time later and showed Chef Rodriguez a picture with his brother, having taken him up on the offer of a tour.

Another personal touch that Chef Rodriguez brings to the restaurant is that he does all the shopping, rather than ordering from a purveyor. “I like to go buy it because I can pick what I want, what I like, and what I see is good.”

The care, love, and personal touch that Chef Rodriguez brings to Off Campus Cafe can be seen and tasted in his food. “One thing that really inspires me to cook is my family. We like to eat almost anything.” He brings a taste of his home with tamales, panuchos, and more. When he wants to switch things up, he’ll create a special dish. He gets to know his clientele and provides service that reflects the family atmosphere of the restaurant.