A rising modern meatery | Off Menu

Not many Americans take time to think about their food as a whole, let alone the environmental consequences of wasteful eating. Chef Ryan Taylor, however, has the future in mind, not just with sustainable eating, but also in how he treats his employees and patrons.

“A Modern American Meatery,” we find Hickory & Ash in the Broomfield Arista area. This diverse, whimsical, and creative restaurant fosters a family-oriented culture. Executive Chef Ryan not only shares what he has learned from 22 years of falling in love with cooking, but also what makes a great chef tick. He details how he stays inspired when facing burnout while  also offering wisdom on how to push against rush culture; Deeply emphasizing the importance of regenerative farming: “The earth is not re-growing itself.”

Head Chef Ryan Taylor

More than 80 billion land animals are slaughtered every year for human consumption. While erradicating consumption is impossible, there are sustainable solutions. Chef Ryan explained, “We didn’t set out to be a steak house, but it was more or less of us calling ourselves a modern American meatery focusing on the whole animal. We try to be as sustainable as possible, using any ground scraps in the meatballs or sausages, and then any good trim goes into tartar.” From braised short ribs, Chef Ryan’s favorite, to beautifully crafted vegetarian dishes, Hickory & Ash offers a diverse and unique menu.

It is important to Chef Ryan that Hickory & Ash feels comfortable and welcoming, not stuffy. “We want people to feel comfortable. I think the hard part about being called a higher-end restaurant is that we still want to maintain a casual atmosphere. You can come in wearing flip flops and shorts, but still be able to have a nice meal.” The formalities are not important; he believes that the food and the inviting atmosphere of the restaurant are the most important aspects. Chef Ryan’s goal is to make classics with a spin on flavor. Combinations you would never expect!

Chef Ryan began his culinary career in rebellion, following his father’s advice to avoid the industry. He says the moment that sparked it all was… duck liver. Yup, you heard it right. Ryan said, ‘When I was 12 or 13 and this may sound pretentious, but I tried foie gras for the first time. It was so cool, and I was like I’ve never had this kind of protein before and it just snowballed into what else could I do with this, and me wanting to go into the industry.”

For many creatives, it is easy to burn out and lose motivation. Chef Ryan shares how he keeps going: “For me, traveling, getting out of the kitchen, trying something new, eating out, going to a new city, stuff like that kind of sparks this inspiration in you again. You have to stay relevant with what other people are doing, too.” After living in Spain, Chef Ryan often revisits the flavors and fondly looks back at his memories for rich inspiration. At the end of the day, the most important thing to Chef Ryan is the people.

Many chefs have a different definition of what makes a great dish, but Chef Ryan’s answer just might be the best one. He said, “Respecting your staff, feeding off of each other’s creativity. Making it a team thing, not like this is my food and we’re doing it my way, but building that camaraderie, throwing around ideas, and everyone feeling comfortable about it.” Chef Ryan mentioned that all of the staff at Hickory & Ash are like family. He said, “I’m always on the line with these guys cooking and cleaning. I think if you show that you really care about the people who work hard for you, it makes a big difference in the food. We have a great crew right now, they are all a part of my family.” Walking in the door of Hickory & Ash, you can surely feel the warmth of this family-driven business. Creating a sense as though you had just walked into a close friend’s home, knowing you will eat well, feel valued, laugh, and make joy-filled memories.

Being a young cook in the industry can be incredibly challenging, especially in this day and age, where rush culture is all the rage. Chef Ryan offered wisdom on how to handle that pressure and succeed. He said, “So if I could teach anyone anything, be patient, put your head down, work hard, and people will notice. You don’t have to push people out of the way to get to the top; it will eventually come to you. I have seen young people rush to the top, and it was too soon; then, all of a sudden, it burns them out, and they crumble. You might as well learn everything you can on someone else’s dime before you start your own thing.”

Chef Ryan’s greatest mission as a chef is to foster and guide the next generation of cooks, leading them in a positive direction. He expands, “I think that some of it has gotten skewed by social media and television shows like The Bear. I think they are painting a very bad outlook of how much anguish and hardship there is. Some of our chefs are brand new and just graduated from Escoffier, so for me, it’s just being a good leader and taking out the drama, bullsh*t, yelling, and that you don’t have to run a kitchen like that. You can still respect the people, and we can learn together and bounce ideas off each other. That’s me personally in my position.”

Furthermore, Chef Ryan says that as a chef, he holds a tremendous responsibility to the earth. He said, “The world is not regrowing itself, so you have to support these people who are doing regenerative farming. You can tell the difference in these vegetables and meats; they don’t need to be pumped full of all this garbage. Highlighting this to people and showing that there can be more to just a carrot is a huge responsibility.” Regenerative farming not only produces delicious produce but also fosters ethical living conditions for animals. Animals are given abundant room to graze, which removes the use of chemicals and antibiotics. These animals have an overall healthier, happier existence on this earth. Conventional farming treats animals with contempt, miserably squeezing them in cages side by side, too tight to breathe. All the while they are pumped with carcinogens, chemicals, and antibiotics. At Hickory & Ash we can see how to support regenerative farming, and the earth can heal once we take active steps in the right direction.